Manual To Auto

[bubba]

It's a separate board but it has a huge number of pins. It's not truly separate - it relies on a lot of the engine ECU's stuff to do it's job.

If you want tiptronic in the R32, your best bet is to get a whole Auto Neo engine and trans and put it in. It will make it better in every single way....except that it will be an auto instead of a manual, which will ruin it as far as I'm concerned.

I took great pleasure in removing the TCU board from my Neo's ECU and throwing it in the bin when we opened it up to put the Nistune board in it.

I'm only looking at it because I've got a dodgy knee and while I love a good clutch kick, it's probably not the best in the long run Might keep my eyes open for a Neo head and start prepping it to go on the 30

[rblover]

Ok heres what you need to do.Sell the nissan and then go buy you self a 1.3l auto nana spec honda.Done

[bubba]

Ok heres what you need to do.Sell the nissan and then go buy you self a 1.3l auto nana spec honda.Done

wut?

[Room42]

wut?

Bubba there are 2 types of bloke on this site. Those that have a skyline and those that do not. I think we have heard from several blokes in this thread that do not.

You get that consult cable up and working yet?

[bubba]

Bubba there are 2 types of bloke on this site. Those that have a skyline and those that do not. I think we have heard from several blokes in this thread that do not.

You get that consult cable up and working yet?

Indeed.

Yeah, we picked up a blazt cable that is doing the job

[OMY31T]

i have a 1995 S1.5 R33 auto.... my car was putting out 225rwkw with a gt30 internal gated version. Ok, so now ive started to make more power, upgraded to a T65-25G, highmount 44mm ext gate running a power fc and mods to suit, my gearbox has a keas valve body, shift kitand manualised(3.5k worth of gear) it is now putting out 255rwkw on 17psi and so the fun begins. the clutches started to go on the dyno thus the low power figues, i rang around to have it rebuilt + a stall converter which im now looking at around 3.5k to do, and nobody can guarntee me that it will hold the power i chasing(350rwkw). You CANNOT beef up these boxes there is nothing available, so if your hunting 300+ at the bags, id look elsewhere for a box. im now sourcing and going to build a C4, its pointless spending big $$$ on an auto that "might not" hold out the power im after.

cheers.

[iseekool]

Not sure if this will be of much help.

R34 non-turbo autos have a separate trans control unit to the ECU (Compared to the turbo model's all in one ECU+TCU). But in saying that you may have alot of work ahead of you if you wish to have it strengthened for higher power outputs.

The advantage is you will have tiptronic functionality.

[OMY31T]

Not sure if this will be of much help.

R34 non-turbo autos have a separate trans control unit to the ECU (Compared to the turbo model's all in one ECU+TCU). But in saying that you may have alot of work ahead of you if you wish to have it strengthened for higher power outputs.

The advantage is you will have tiptronic functionality.

r34 autos are weaker across the board i was told strictly to stay away from them, and as far as ive been told you cannot put an r34 auto into an r33

[iseekool]

r34 autos are weaker across the board i was told strictly to stay away from them, and as far as ive been told you cannot put an r34 auto into an r33

I suppose it depends - If he is running an aftermarket ECU - The TCU will still function somewhat independently.

"Maybe" is possible to use the TCU from a non turbo R34 to control an auto from an 34 GTt...

Just throwing some ideas around - I don't know if it will work though.

[WHITER33GTS-T]

Just get a C4. You wont look back. Mine has held 475rwkw so far

[bubba]

I suppose it depends - If he is running an aftermarket ECU - The TCU will still function somewhat independently.

"Maybe" is possible to use the TCU from a non turbo R34 to control an auto from an 34 GTt...

Just throwing some ideas around - I don't know if it will work though.

A non-turbo R34 auto is pretty much an R33 auto..

But there must be a way to make the 401b boxes strong as I'm pretty sure there's a guy in WA using a 4WD 401b box in a drag car...

[W0rp3D]

i have a 1995 S1.5 R33 auto.... my car was putting out 225rwkw with a gt30 internal gated version. Ok, so now ive started to make more power, upgraded to a T65-25G, highmount 44mm ext gate running a power fc and mods to suit, my gearbox has a keas valve body, shift kitand manualised(3.5k worth of gear) it is now putting out 255rwkw on 17psi and so the fun begins. the clutches started to go on the dyno thus the low power figues, i rang around to have it rebuilt + a stall converter which im now looking at around 3.5k to do, and nobody can guarntee me that it will hold the power i chasing(350rwkw). You CANNOT beef up these boxes there is nothing available, so if your hunting 300+ at the bags, id look elsewhere for a box. im now sourcing and going to build a C4, its pointless spending big $$ on an auto that "might not" hold out the power im after.

cheers.

So let me get this straight, at 225rwkw it was a standard auto and was doing fine or it had been modified already?

[goa33]

I was just looking on Calais Turbo's site and it took to no 19 to see a manual for the fastest ET in QLD.. Maybe the other 18 need to look here if the manuals are the quicker option as they must be missing something!

He must have been a slow changer to lose the few seconds

1. turbowerx 8.32 @ 154mph .............. ford 4l
2. VLT87 - 8.7 @ 155mph .................. methanol , glide , gt45 26/30
3. SHERIF - 8.79 @ 162mph ..................... roo16 gt45 RB30 , glide
4. GREAME'S BROTHER - 8.8@158 ................. race fuel 32psi no gas 26/30
5. IGNITE - 8.80 @ 154mph
6. MYT16 - 9.3 @147mph
7. CMY747 - 9.69 @ 139mph ................ 34psi glide rb30, c16
8. OVL087 - 9.95 @ 137mph ............. 27psi gt35 , glide , roo16
9. Exchaser - 9.96 @133mph ............. RB30, GT35, mt et streets ,31psi E85, keas 3 speed.
10. MAXPSI - 9.98 @137mph ................. powerglide, streets, c16, 27psi, RB26 conversion
11. 31PSI - 10.37 @ 131mph ................slicks,RB30/25,C16,24lb boost,Trimatic
12. TURBOWERX - 10.40 @ 135 .............. 26/30 2spd 22psi pump no gas
13. PWR 747, 10.45 @ 133 ............... 30/25 , T66, Keas 3 spd, PULP (plus booster)on MT Streets
14. PSI06 - 10.55 @ 118mph............ powerglide, slicks, pump fuel, 24psi, T04e66, all RB30,
15. 304-cid - 10.8 @126mph .................auto , 22psi , slicks
16. Con - 10.8 @121mph
17. weiksy 10.82 @ 126.6 ...................... RB30, Glide, pump fuel, 35/40, standard manifolds
18. PSI316 - 10.9 @ 132mph - ................ to4z , glide
19. Danny's Calais - 11.4 @124mph.......... manual, nos

Edited October 28, 2011 by goa33

[zebra]

Just get a C4. You wont look back. Mine has held 475rwkw so far

A non-turbo R34 auto is pretty much an R33 auto..

But there must be a way to make the 401b boxes strong as I'm pretty sure there's a guy in WA using a 4WD 401b box in a drag car...

MV Autos in Radelaide...or get a C4/TH350 if you want stupid power

[W0rp3D]

MV Autos in Radelaide...or get a C4/TH350 if you want stupid power

Sent them an email asking the price of the valave body and shift controller to make the auto manual since i have a power fc and also what sort of power the standard auto would hold, here is there reply.

Brett

260rwkw if the transmission is in good working order.

A shift controller costs $295

Shift kitted valve body $385

+ a core deposit of $100 which is refunded when we receive your valve body back.

+freight. Will need postal address to give you a quote.

Molly

[zebra]

Not a bad price really

have you got their email handy?

[W0rp3D]

[email protected]

Yes not bad at all, next thing on the list is to price a converter.

[zebra]

Cheers

[OMY31T]

So let me get this straight, at 225rwkw it was a standard auto and was doing fine or it had been modified already?

the box had a KEAS shift kit in it, the same as the MV auto's one, except i had no shift controller and had no issues. seriously the best quote i have gotten so far is $3200 fully manualised box, built to handle 700rwhp using the keas kit(www.keas.com.au) + another 1500 for a cusotm built 8" pro drag stall converter from TCE. so your up for a good $5000 to build a decent RE4R01A box.

it ran day in day out with the shift kit and 225rwkw, but the clutches in the 3/4 clutch drum(3rd and 4th gear) always slipped, it was 2 much power for it, so after 2 yrs, it finally stuffed up when it was on the dyno and only hit 255rwkw when it should have made around 280rwkw.

so no matter how u look at it, the box wont hold big power without money thrown at it. my gearbox had 180,000kms on it, so maybe a low k's box will do better as long as you use good oil in it.

[GTR260]

C4 or trimatic