Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9psi... 50psi... psi has nothing to do with it really.

It's the amount of air flowing at that level of psi.

With a hi-flow turbo, it'll be moving more air than the stocker.

So it is highly posible the fuel pump has run out.

I'd sort out the fuel pump first.

Or take it back to the workshop. Something smells fishy to me

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The car is manual. New platnum plugs ($22.00 each at trade price!). Fuel system is standard but I'm not looking at running 1 bar + at this point . I want to have it tuned for street use at around 12-14psi so I didn't think that would matter. The boys at TVE did put it on the dyno originally after the turbo was put back in but they said the plugs were on the way out and the oil needed changing so they didn't bother adjusting boost over standard. I changed the oil (mobile 1), filter and plugs the very next day. I have booked a dyno tune Thursday morning but as you all know it's much better walking in with a fair idea of whats happening so they don't spin shit and charge me a fortune when they don't have to.

I'm amazed to see such a high level of knowledge and apprieciate everybody's input. Thankyou all

My problem was a simple overlooked fact that the battery was on it's way out....putting an unusual load on the electrical system. It affected the coil-pack power, fuel pump flow, and alternator load...it caused detonation, misfiring and a rough idle all at mysterious varying times.

I've got a $38 supercheap battery in until I get a decent one, and it works a treat.

I've spent many hours and amlmost a lot of money trying to find this out, try it out it's worth a go.

Dan

hate to say but, platinum plugs are a waste of money.

Your a silly sausage for not getting a bigger fuel pump. The factory one struggles even on the factory turbo once things are optimised.

Whether or not its the plugs (my guess it isn't)get the fuel pump or there will be a motor rebuild waiting for you shortly.

Does the noise sound like a metalic rattle? It's pinging if it is. If so get the fuel issue sorted

Rev210 you are a wise man. Believe me if the dyno shows a lack of fuel there will be a Mack truck fuel pump in the car the very same day. The last thing I want is to be in the WANTED section of the forum asking for an RB25DET.

The battery idea is a good one. I have the factory battery fitted and that is now having its ninth birthday this year.

I know the plugs are a rip off but I get work to pay for all repairs (tax payer dollars, sorry guys!!) so I just thought I'd get the ones suggested in the shop's spark plug book

Just to set the story straight on the fuel pump(s), they don't always hit their limit....sometimes they just start to lose pressure, or die outright as happened last week on a car I work on. The standard pump is good for the limit of the boost pressure of the stock turbo in the RB25, being safe at 14psi. Any more is an early death sentence for the turbine. Some have gotten away with more boost longer, but they are the exceptions.

It's possible that you may have already cracked pistons so keep that in mind and get a leakdown test and compression test and monitor blowby gas closely. it will show up even revving the engine after warmup. Look for smokey gas coming from the cam pipes after disconnecting them.

Clean your AFM element with some carby cleaner and just spray it through the post in the middle, after removing the AFM from the car.

I have to agree with R31Nismoid. A highflow turbo will flow more air at lower pressure, thence requiring more fuel. Disconnect your return fuel line in the engine bay and run it into a bucket, then start the car. There should be a healthy flow of fuel, not a trickle or anything else.

You can check your battery with a cheap multimeter both key off (11.? volts) and running (13.? volts) to determine system health.

I note you also have the cat back exhaust done. Get a high flow cat and at least a 3" dump ($260 delivered by Batmbl) if not a split pipe dump so it is free flowing all the way. The greatest gains are to be made in the front end of the exhaust but everyone (even me) seems to leave that to last. The constricted exhaust flow may be causing some problems as well.

Spark plugs: if you regap exotics it is a good chance you will remove some of that expensive material making them marginally effective. I have copper plugs in my track car (bugger it all of my cars even the V8 Soarer)) and find they are more reliable for power. They need a regap every 20-30 thou kays, or every time I go to the track as part of pre-race servicing. Great at $20 a set!!!

Try a lot of this yourself, hard to get it wrong if you take your time and you will appreciate your car more for it, and save a motza.

I've got the same problem a misfiring at hi boost (> 11psi) but with different mods on my R33 Gtst with a full exhaust, FMIC, pod, dual port bov. I got a wolf 3d ems tuned last september with a new bosch fuel pump and NGK BCPR7ES sparks set to 0.8mm. Car was running fine at 14psi from a bleeder until march this year when two coils went one after the other, I then thought another coil had gone with misfiring. But coils were fine they had replaced the plugs with autolite App 3924 double platinum plugs but gapped them at 1.1mm I then got them to change it to 0.8mm which I thought made the car run better with not as much misfiring at hi boost (10 psi is fine but much more than that). They also cheaked the heat range of the autolite plugs and the same as the ngk 23-37 i think. I've reduced the overall trim of the ignition timing by up to 5 degrees and it did not make any difference also the battery voltage is almost alway 14 V on the handcontroller during normal usage so I think the battery is fine but havn't checkit under hi load. I reloaded the origimal wolf settings and didn't make a difference so I don't think theres anything wrong with the wolf and I starting to run out I ideas so any ideas are much appreciated.

"check you intercooler hoses

one might be a bit loose and when you hit 9 psi it releases enough air for it to miss (to much fuel)

thats my sugestion"

Couldn't see and obvious loose hose on the intercooler piping but thanks for the suggestion i'll get someon else to check it out also might change the gap from"Try a lower spark gap - .76 works for me where .80 wouldn't." as mine are only on 0.8.

P.S. Also pete unfortunately won't be able to make FD2 got to play rugby, hard after having such a good day at the last one.

Mate, i use to have the same problem when the car ran hot. Remove the nissan cover for your coils, cause they fry under there. :flamed: . And all should run sweet :P

cheers

ak

my gtr has started to miss fire when it gets hot have changed the fuel pump coil packs ,fuel filter and spark plugs and have not solved the problem any other ideas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately haven’t taken pics yet after it was finished. All the edges are hemmed nicely, just had to cut holes for the gear shifter and seat bolts and seat belt bolts in the rear. The molds seem like they’re done with steam and a layer of glue on the underside to hold a bit of shape but still soft enough that it’s a good fit when it’s all pressed down.
    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
×
×
  • Create New...