Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where are you sourcing them? If they are made for a LHD car, they won't be legal in Aust.

straight from japan, I been asking for more info, not to sure yet but i think its for RHD but it cost about $1500, but damn that looks good,

Edited by yunghumma

pv35gt8 is buying/has bought a set if you really need to wait for a "review".

Whether or not he'll give you one is another matter, so maybe PM him.

As an aside, what would the review contain? "I like them, they look good on my car and let me see where I am going at night!"?

As an aside, what would the review contain? "I like them, they look good on my car and let me see where I am going at night!"?

^:rofl2: That about sums it up! But seriously, $1500 sounds a bit rich. Pretty sure I've seen DIY's on G35 driver. Maybe costs $50 - $100 for the parts...?

Here you go, found this one (of many) http://g35driver.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting-diy/336660-diy-led-headlight-thread.html

you could make your own like i am.....

Twin parabolic lenses

8000k HID's

Modified factory HID looms

just undecided as to what kind of parker/indicator setup to make. I do like the new Merc and BMW LED setups. These V35 headlights just arent a good shape to begin working with

9db40d7c.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

i need new headlights and got quoted $2500 each for OEM by nissan in newcastle. wanna go aftermarket so i dont have the same problem and i cant find any black mounted ones from japan. so i found some on ebay from america. why are they illegal if theyre made for a lhd car on a rhd car?

Where are you sourcing them? If they are made for a LHD car, they won't be legal in Aust.

park your car facing a wall at night and look at how the light pattern angles up to the left... more light on the houses and footpath... this is what RHD headlights are supposed to do.

if you use LHD headlights, the pattern would be opposite... this light would blind oncoming traffic .

im using LHD headlights but am installing RHD lenses to fix this problem, which is a very very complex thing to do. it involves destroying parts of your new lights to do the mod.

  • 3 months later...

park your car facing a wall at night and look at how the light pattern angles up to the left... more light on the houses and footpath... this is what RHD headlights are supposed to do.

if you use LHD headlights, the pattern would be opposite... this light would blind oncoming traffic .

im using LHD headlights but am installing RHD lenses to fix this problem, which is a very very complex thing to do. it involves destroying parts of your new lights to do the mod.

Hi Mate,

I have a v35 coupe and wanted to buy aftermarket headlights (full housing) I hear alot about you cant put LHD headlights on a RHD car, do you know of anyone in AUS or other countries that sell aftermarket Headlights for V35 Coupes.

your help will be greatly appreciated

Jose

I have a set of the V35 projector headlights fitted to my sedan.

They can be purchased from IM, for under $1000. :thumbsup:

Low beam is H1 so if you are running the original HID setup in your car, it is no good. I was running aftermarket so all I had to do was buy new globes.

As for performance they are great, much better than the original lights. :cheers:

  • 11 months later...

the current project...... not easy at all building these from spare parts

3E44D4C2-51D7-4451-8694-205B43359163-1400-000002681B12CDDD.jpg

im using the $150 ebay black housings (yes, LHD) that suit H1 low beam.

Baked in the oven and seperated.

Have cut out the H1 low beam fitting and in its place I have inserted a parabolic assembly from an NA Ford Fairlane (edit - theyre actually from a Mazda 929/Eunos 300M). This means that the original reflector is no longer used, it now gives me a RHD cutoff beam as per Australian Standards.

The parabolic assembly is being modified so it will take the D2R HID bulb from the V35s original headlight.

Fog and high beam will still come from the bottom H4 halogen and lense which is a flat beam and doesnt need modifying, but i'll probably install another parabolic lense later on

D70BA2A2-274D-474B-B701-E8D44742EA61-1400-00000267F9FA99FB.jpg

EB5AF069-397F-4A2B-8AF5-3AA0EC82BC80-1400-000002680ABF3294.jpg

The whole kit will cost me about $400 plus a few days work getting these things built. its proving to be difficult to get right.... theres a LOT of cutting and drilling to do, and it cant be un-done

Edited by Deep Dish V35

nice work there mate. It's definitely the way to go - if done right it will achieve much better output than the taiwan lights.

old na fairline projectors are an interesting choice - hope they have a decent output. are you planning to install some shrouds?

I haven't started mine yet - but hopefully going to get onto it before winter rolls around.

I've bought a dremel - and got all my retro fit parts - i just need to get the balls up to cut open a set of OEM lights!

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Sorry just remembered that i had ditched the NA Fairlaine assemblies.

Im actually using Mazda 929/Eunos 300M parabolic assemblies. theyre quite a deep assembly so fitment is a bit tight.

The NA Fairlane lights were junk. the parabolic lense was not attatched to the reflector. the whole thing looked to be a last minute add-on to the ford to mimic real parabolic lenses.

As for shrouds.... im undecided. Dont really want chrome in there and I kinda like the industrial look of having it all on show..

Dremel is good for final touches, but cant handle doing the cutting. Ive already destroyed a flex shaft...

Edited by Deep Dish V35

what do you recommend for the cutting?

I'd be afraid to take my 4" angle grinder anywhere near a set of OEM headlights.

You can always paint the shrouds black? or maybe gloss black for a bit of contrast to the matte black housings?

hack saw blade in a knife style handle ended up being alot quicker for the main cuts, then dremel the fine details

unless your dremel comes with a mini circular saw style blade, thatd work better. i only had angle grinder style blades

4 hours of fiddling with this D2R globe fitment and It just doesnt want to happen. if i downgraded to halogen globes it'd all be finished now hahahah

Edited by Deep Dish V35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...