Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm, patience mate, it will be worth it.

I'm using morimoto minis - they basically slot in and you screw a fitting rung on from behind. It doesn't get any easier. Hardest part will be trimming the shrouds and housing.

success.... finally

using a rotary burr I was able to hollow out the H1 base leaving just enough material so that a H1 could still be used if necessary, and so a D2R bulb could be inserted instead..

B8E5520D-911C-4B27-A71D-0DFFC2381A84-2065-000003E0E4ED9BD4.jpg

The D2R bulb and socket sticks out a long way... the bulb is now locked in by 2 screws instead of a spring clip. so yes, replacing a blown bulb is going to be a harder task.

4BE159BA-CE96-473C-95BC-8F6D7BEB444D-2065-000003E170E06C45.jpg

ABF9F3C4-CAAF-4709-93B1-0193C75BBC73-2065-000003E0FB8A864E.jpg

5B40E89A-A286-432D-8299-2A8D1BA8002C-2065-000003E0C6A02AEE.jpg

1FF7A6C7-079B-46A8-A16B-F8EC368FD3FA-2065-000003DF740DB4D6.jpg

i can already see an improvement in light output with daylight filling the garage. when standing an object infront of the car, the cast shadows are much sharper from the new headlight. The beam cutoff line is much cleaner, and there is a fine blue/yellow edge on that cutoff. I'll upload a night pic tonight before my mad rush to reassemble the car.

F27B946D-17FA-4475-B9CE-2FD5E3A9FD4C-2065-000003DF82B9E019.jpg

9FDD9A63-D55F-484E-901B-4C42D19F9336-2065-000003DF63E85848.jpg

Edited by Deep Dish V35

I had those Tai/Japanese import ones in my sedan, they were pretty good once you got the headlight adjustment right on them, just don't do what i did and put them in, put it back together and then check the alignment... or you will become a pro at taking off the front bar rofl.... also if you want to build your own I have a set of headlights here from my 300GT that I can sell you

those front bar mounts are definitely a pain. a quick release clip behind the side indicators instead of the two 10mm bolts would make life easier.

i dont run the undertray anymore so that saves about half an hour

And heres the difference between factory HID and my setup.

Keep in mind, these are both using the factory loom, ballast, and Phillips D2R bulb. The only difference comes down to the reflector in the factory headlamp Vs the parabolic lense assembly in my custom light (aka projector beam)

This is the passenger side OEM HID

1CA23161-8D69-4404-81B3-4A122D92AE3E-2324-00000441130A3730.jpg

this is the drivers side parabolic

7B798782-611D-4D3B-9CDB-777262149C96-2324-000004419A34043A.jpg

and both side by side... you can see how much brighter the road would be infront of the drivers side, the clean cut line, and the blue/yellow light refraction on the top edge.

96F9257A-2F2B-4255-AC2E-8DF023899A67-2324-00000441AE3EA01F.jpg

I love parabolic lights. Modified the ones in my old BMW years ago... and built my own set for my scooter years ago too..

heres something that will dampen your motivation then.....

testing the light in a garage over 7 metres is one thing.... testing it in the street is something different.

it turns out that my custom light beam only travels forwards about 8 metres before fading out real quickly. thats less than 1/4 the distance of the oem assembly. and yet directly infront of the car the light is awesome. You can see in my previous post , on the roller door, a darker spot in the centre of the new beam just below the cutoff. well that spot gets much worse.... i did notice it earlier today and thought "uh oh"

so yes, ive either got a slight alignment issue with the bulb (guessing by about 2mm, entirely possible)..... or its the D2R bulb itself.

research has just told me that the D2R bulb actually has a built-in deflector designed to stop glare when installed in your everyday reflector type headlight like the OEM assembly. this deflector appears to block the area of light that would project directly forwards in a parabolic assembly..... switching the bulb with a D2S should fix this - the D2S is a 99% identical bulb just without that built-in deflector.

so now... i just have to buy a pair and try it.

Edited by Deep Dish V35

yeah i didn't want to dampen your enthusiasm but i think your output pics leave a bit of work to be done.

hopefully the D2S's will help - but i also notice that you did some custome mounting of the bulb and i am pretty sure the position of the bulb inside the arc of the projector lense makes a big difference. I think you might be out of alignment based on the hotspots you can see in your garage shot.

here is an idea of what the morimoto minis look like in terms of output - and they're not conisdered to be up there with the best of them either (unlike LS460's, S2k's, FX-R's etc)

e04d841d-4a8c-4645-b7c1-1ff029dc5989-4.jpg

DSC05085.jpg

knew it wouldnt be right first time hahaha..... but even as is, its better than i was expecting. the arc in the D2R is sitting about 2mm rearward compared to the H1 filament. i didnt want to shave the mounting face of the assembly just yet...

if only they made a H1 HID bulb with the same loom fitting as a D2R...

a universal assembly like yours is obviously the smarter option...

Edited by Deep Dish V35

hmmm

maybe have a look on here, there are lots of different adapters and splitters that might help you get a H1 globe (as you're buying new ones anyway) to PNP with your D2R ballast?

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=255

if you swing them an email, matt, the business owner will normally respond pretty quickly and with a host of information. I've bought off them a few times now and always based on the advice they give more or less.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...