Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys n girls

My girlfriend has a m35 coming up to it's 100,000 km service,

What does it consist of and also who in Adelaide would it be good to take too??

Second question is,

When putting the car in reverse the car seems to shutter , it get worse when u turn while reversing , and also happens when in drive and slow speed but will go away once on load( 50kmh +)

Feels like the shuttering comes from

The rear but not 100%

Has anyone heard of this or had it, or know what it could be?

Thanks in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378262-few-m35-questions/
Share on other sites

100K service is nothing major on the VQ25DET motor as it has a timing chain that does not need replacing.

Depending what has been done since you owned it the things you could look at are.

Oil & Filter change

Radiator fluid

Gearbox fluid (but not essential)

Diff fluids (but not essential)

Check brake pads & fluid

Grease hinges

The shudder in reverse is common as you have to remember you have a 4WD system and they don't like being put on full lock in reverse. This can be made worse by having the "Syncro" button depressed.

Maybe the gearbox fluid change would be good to do.

Cheers

Andy

Awesome thanks guys,

Yeah there's a fwd light on the dash altho, it has never come on , but when we first looked at the car and test drive it, it was on, hmmm

What does the light mean???

If the AWD light is light on the dash it means the ATTESSA AWD system is faulty.

I get that intermittently...but I wonder if its because my ECU was falling out >_<

Will check that tomorrow and go from there , really hope there's nothing wrong with it as I know they are very costly

Not necessarily... could be anything from needing to be bled to the relay being faulty.

Why not bleed the system and go from there?

Yeah that's my plan, see if this lights on there, if not see if there's a globe and findthe last owner for a chat , then bleed it ,

Is this the correct way of bleeding it ?

http://www.skylinesa...leeding-how-to/

More or less, the white plug that you need to unplug is located on the ODB2 cable under the drivers side dash, you should see a small hatch with the plug attached, pull the cable through and you will see a plug, just unplug it and turn the car on to reds and you will hear the pump start to turn. Make sure you open the bleed nipple on the back of the transfer case a fair bit to get the fluid moving. IT WILL MAKE A MESS so be prepared as it will go through a fair bit. Having 3 people there will help the job along, one person at the nipple, one at the rear topping up fluid and the other turning the car on and off. I use Matic D in the atessa.

Also the nipple at the motor end seems more like a drain nipple as it is gravity only and does not require the pump to operate in order for fluid to come out.

Mike.

the nipple at the transfer case is under pressure when the pump is running. even when the pump is stopped.

hydraulic systems push bubbles to the furthest point (generally), so the bleed nipple at the motor end is the one you probably need to bleed

Ok just had a little look at the car,

The 4wd / awd light does not come on when ignition is switched on, Does anyones????

I found were to fill up with fluid and it is above the Max line :)

I then checked the plug under the dash and check to see if It was connected , can hear the pump working :)

Will attempt bleeding the system on weekend and see if that makes any difference ,

Ok just had a little look at the car,

The 4wd / awd light does not come on when ignition is switched on, Does anyones????

I found were to fill up with fluid and it is above the Max line :)

I then checked the plug under the dash and check to see if It was connected , can hear the pump working :)

Will attempt bleeding the system on weekend and see if that makes any difference

Pretty sure mine lights up when the ignition is in the on position.

Ours doesn't line up when the sync switch is on snow or sync,

Are we talking about the little pic off the 4 wheels or the word "4wd"?

Yes, although I may be mistaken with what I said before. :blush:

Will test it out tonight after work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...