Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at ordering some CF cloth to muck around and try make some parts for my car. Been doing quite a bit googling but dont have any solid answers. Anyone have any references (sites/pics/etc) for the difference between 1K, 3K, 6K, 12K etc as to how they look in real life. What is better, twill or plain, which K rating etc. A price guide - where to buy in aus or order from o/seas. In a nutshell, looking for a CF-101 sort of site.

Any of you guys tried doing some DIY parts ? Prefered method of injecting resin ? Pics ?

Thanks !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378845-carbon-fiber/
Share on other sites

Have done this myself. It depends on what you're wrapping or making as to what twill and things you need, as some are better suited to straights where-as some are better suited to going around curves. The k-rating refers to the number of filaments in the cloth, so 3k will have 3000 filaments, 6k will have 6000 filaments etc. The lower the number the smaller the weave will be and the lighter and more expensive the cloth will be. You will most likely want 2x2 twill 3k cloth, that is the most common choice for cosmetic applications. 6k will be ok as well. Get 3k if you can. This is what they look like:

Carbon-Fiber-Cloth-Fabric-2x2-Twill-50-6k-11oz.JPG.jpgMAXCLR-HPCARBONFIBER080.jpg

Compared to plain:

plain_weave_carbon_fiber_fabric.jpg

Can't find any good pictures of 12k weave, but you don't want it trust me. The weaves are huge. 3k looks the best.

As for price, keep in mind that carbon fibre is expensive to make and is therefore expensive to buy. Expect to pay around $80 a meter. If the price seems too good to be true then it probably is. Just search for carbon fibre fabric/cloth on google and there's quite a few stores that come up that sell good stuff. I bought mine locally in Perth for $75 a meter + GST. For the resin, make sure you get a good epoxy resin. If you're doing engine parts, the resin needs to be able to handle the heat. Do NOT, whatever you do, get polyester resin.

That's pretty much all there is to it. I will say from my own experiences... It's not easy. In fact it's really damn hard. Start with something small and simple. Be really really careful with the carbon fabric because it's so fragile and easy to damage before you put the resin on it. Once you apply the resin it's as strong as anything, but you can really mess up the pattern and finish if you're not careful. If you're making your own fully carbon parts instead of simply skinning existing parts, you will need to get some peel-ply to absorb the excess resin otherwise the final product will be really heavy and not very good. You will also need to vacuum bag it while it dries so that it bonds properly.

Good luck eh :)

Edited by Hanaldo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378845-carbon-fiber/#findComment-6042213
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Ive done more them my share of carbon, kevlar and fiberglass work

The cost is much less if you know where to look , if all goes well in the future i might put together some kits and group buys from my supply source i asked for group buy pricing but havent heard back yet ( friday am )

I can get just about everything you can imagine and some you cant haha

I have just about every weave and thickness in carbon a bunch of kelvar bulletproof stuff in yellow and carbon/ kevlar in blue or red or yellow ( not coloured fiberglass but kevlar unlike others!)

And arramid fiber used in heat shields on jets or turbos

And various resins

You dont need vacuum bags in most cases or even ovens except on wet cool days !!!

Cosmetic parts can be light still

Of course if your after lightweight and super strong the process gets way more expensive and consumes a lot of time to do it right !

Most people just want the looks first

The side afffect is its strong and lighter then fiberglass and can be 7 times stronger then steel

You cant use the cheap resin( fiberglass type) from bunnings on carbon lol

Epoxy is the go and a few other types i get from usa

i have the 12k weave for undertray full length on my car , 1 layer will be strong enough with kevlar scrape points on nose and on impact parts on the new body kit

I have some quarter turn flush quick release like aircraft cowls use coming as well to do some nice toys on my car and yet retain easy access to work on it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378845-carbon-fiber/#findComment-6271060
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Change the subframe bushes, transforms the car.
    • For something a little more serious, Davinci Resolve is about the best there is for free video editors. No expiration dates or watermarks, completely free.
    • Well, it's taken me until the last week of 2024 to actually do something on the Skyline but I consider it a good head start to 2025's efforts! I managed to justify (to myself anyway...) my purchase of the lift table. It made taking the rear subframe out a lot easier than it would have been without anyway! Everything is out and stripped down ready for a clean then powdercoating.  She's pretty grubby under there but pretty good condition for a 38 year old Japanese tin bucket. 12 years of zero street time have obviously helped that... I need to decide which of the factory suspension arms I will keep and replace so I only get what I'm keeping powdercoated.  Baby steps but it's a start!  
    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
×
×
  • Create New...