Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am looking at upgrading my R33 series 1 RB25DET gearbox, I am looking at either a Series 3 or even a straight cut gear set. My question is;

What are the differences between Series 1 and series 3 boxes?

And

How do you identify them externally (Markings and model numbers etc)?

Thanks in advance peeps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378934-rb25det-series-1-v-series-3-gearbox/
Share on other sites

I know Series 3 GTR gearboxes are stronger then their earlier brothers...

But GTST wise there was only ever Series 1 and Series 2 :/ - and I wasn't aware of any differences gearbox wise for them.

I could be wrong tho...:/

Yeah this is where my confusion lies. As far as I know all R33 Gts-t manual boxes are the same. So there was no real series 1 or 2 box let alone series 3

Unless your talking GTR boxes as questioned above

See, SAU Rocks!

I was skeptical at first, thinking the same as you guys, I had heard of a series 3 for GTR, but not GTS... I wondered if perhaps it might be from a R34 GTT???

Some more research needed.

Cheers guys!

:D

And as far as I know it was the syncros which were strengthened in the S3 GTR boxes.

I thought one of the gears or maybe shafts was an updated (better) version. Thought I remembered seeing something about this, but Im no expert on GTR boxes, so this could be 100% wrong lol

but R33 S1 and S2 boxes are identical, R34 boxes..... Not so sure, but think there the same also (early versions at least)

Yep, you guys are right! definately no series 3 GTS box... spoke to the original source again and they confirm that for some reason they starting thinking GTR even though I had said RB25DET... lol.

Thanks for your help guys.

Dan.

Wouldn't be much of an upgrade anyway...the difference between GTR boxes is buggerall...they still all blow 3rd gear when pushed hard enough. Better off investing in an aftermarket gearset.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the thing....the basics of fuel and ignition are deceptively simple.....getting it to behave like factory in all conditions after airflow mods is way more complex. Newer cars like the V37 are all about modifying the standard ECU which is about a billion times more complex than they were 20 years ago, with a bunch of parameters affecting others
    • The larger TB I had on the SS was a pain to get to idle right, but, that was cable In the end they just raised the idle up a couple of hundred RPM so it was happy idling away either in gear or in park (slush box life) I'm curious on how my NC will idle with the new intake, larger TB, and cams that are currently going in/on, but I have faith that MX5 Mania will sort this "electronical" "black magic" out the best they can in the tune with a electronic TB Sometimes I wish I knew more about the intricacies of tuning, but most of the time I don't because I know it would hurt my brain 🤣
    • That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.
    • The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.
×
×
  • Create New...