Jump to content
SAU Community

The Build Of The Beast

Hadouken
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks man.

Mechanical sympathy plays a big part I think. And if the motor goes, then that's that. Ill just get another motor down the line. But that will be a whole new debacle haha.

I am glad you are going with -9's. They are great. :P

I was very lucky with the headlights. One of those once in a lifetime opportunities. Bought them brand new off a guy who works for import monster for half the price.

I also see that I dont have my 1/4 mile PB up on here 11.2 @ 127mph.

http://vid1040.photobucket.com/albums/b406/jacquesvd/Sequence01_1_zps5c9dfec4.mp4

And there will be more videos of hopefully a still running gtr next week :)

  • Replies 807
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Hadouken
Hadouken

So the shine gets a tick of approval on this aswell.

Hadouken
Hadouken

Soooooo, filled up today. With normal driving (I mean squirt here, squirt there) on E85 I have reached a pretty low 14.6l/100. My lowest was all freeway on 11l/100. And I thought I'd crack it the S

Hadouken
Hadouken

Posted Images

tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
Posted

Nice video man - I'll have to put down a decent time myself!

You wouldn't happen to be on that GTR Owners Club page?

-9's for the win btw! I just finished building a motor for my set - they really are an awesome turbo!

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Do you mean that facebook page? I do believe I'm on there haha. Why's that?

Built motor would be the goods. I'd probably try and see where they run out of puff. I reckon you could get maybe 23/24 psi out of them. That would be some nice power.

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

Do you mean that facebook page? I do believe I'm on there haha. Why's that?

Built motor would be the goods. I'd probably try and see where they run out of puff. I reckon you could get maybe 23/24 psi out of them. That would be some nice power.

Will push mine next year after the engine refresh and new e85 setup ;)

-9s ftw hahaha

Will have to come track with us next year man ;)

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

Hahaha you will see them I may even start a build thread if I can be bothered

Will be over 360kw I'm sure by how much who knows more looking for more mid range punch for track

Screw it will instruct tuner to max them hahaha just for the efames lol

tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
Posted

Yeh that would be the page ;)

And yes, as for power levels everything under 500hp is safe for street use...so I've been told, but I personally will be capping mine at 450hp or so which seems to be the max for these -9 turbos anway. And that's also keeping track work in mind which I dare say you're pretty keen on? We've all probably heard of those who get away with 600hp on the stock motor...but I wouldn't push a 20 year old uncracked motor that far! You will be bragging for a couple days and then BOOM you will be nicely embarrassed haha

The first thing that goes under higher power are the rod end bolts. (so I was sure to throw a set of those in as well)

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nick is a track fiend. When his car wants to play the game.

Besides, I don't run high boost on the track, low boost is much better for it. And I run a slightly richer tune.

I remember this one guy coming around saying he had 360 or was it 380kw on 9's. Hard to believe If you can't back it up.

I reckon 360 is definitely possible with nines. Couple extra psi and the midrange would be intense. It's all about the power under the curve

levinboy Grand Master

levinboy

Posted
Posted

Tom my engine is built so I thrash it hahaha run 20-22psi on 98 with my -9s with 350kw

Mainly used on the track these days

Engine coming out for a refresh after a random lean out I'm trying to figure out plus some extra little bits and pieces which will make it even faster on track ;)

All about that response

  • Like 1
tommis85 Mentor

tommis85

Posted
Posted

Yeh I've just finished building mine...I'm aiming for the 330kw mark with my -9's. As soon as she's tuned up I want to be out on those tracks as often as I can hehe and yes, response is everything! 1500kg car, 2.6L engine...you need that thing to come on properly and soon! ;)

Ambi3nce Contributor

Ambi3nce

Posted
Posted

Loving the -9s banter! I also have a set and best thing I ever did was go them over the -5's.

I get 20psi by a little over 4K and makes 470hp. Thats with cams swung hard for response, reckon could easy get 500hp from them on same boost if top end was the goal (e85).

Im in the same boat as you man, good healthy stock internals and pulled sump for RIPS extension and billet gears to try make the stock bottom last.

Like you said its a bit of a lottery, but a good tune and ecu along with mechanical sympathy you should be good.

Another plus on -9s is can set limiter lower, 7500 is high as mine goes as turbos run out of breath above it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • MBS206
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛
    • MrStabby
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MrStabby · Posted

      I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
    • joshuaho96
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I have personally seen a Tomei USA RB26 cam that didn't even fit the head. Kind of nuts to me that it was even possible for that to happen but such is life.  There's two UP Garages in the US. One is a US branch of the Japanese company which sells things they brought over at tremendous markup. The other is University Place Garage/Fairlady Motors which is a shop best known for putting VCAM in RBs and trying to convince people to stop putting in 800hp of turbo on a 2.5L motor.
    • GTSBoy
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Gasless MIG is not exactly suited to what I would call "delicate" or "attractive" welding. So I would rule it out for sheet metal rust repair type stuff, unless you're only doing it in hidden places. I'm thinking about getting myself a gasless MIG for "hack together" type work. Noting that my welding experience is very very low, and quite a long time ago. So I'm also looking for "simple", but I'm not expecting "excellent". I'm not even sure that proper MIG is the best for sheet metal work. I get the feeling that the degree of control and the minimisation of heat input that you get from TIG is probably what you really want. And then you have to get good at doing it before the welds won't look like a monkey flinging a handful of shit anyway. You're probably SOL for an easy and cheap way to get from where you are to where you want to be. Much like myself.
×
×
  • Create New...