Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just so everyone is aware..the fuel pump relay control signal is only .6v...so nissan must use a voltage amplifier of some description or a low voltage relay. My fuel pump stopped work so i did the 14v direct relay mod and wanted to use the ecu fuel pump relay signal....

I also checked this voltage against my new power fc djetro and its the same voltage (wire cut as to elliminate any other interferance)

  • 7 years later...

Rather than start a new thread...

What pin out would control the MFD "Menu selection" screen. Currently i cannot change gauge outputs as the "menu selection" is greyed out all the time. Looks like it's not sensing i am at 0 km/h or in park.

 

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Um....what makes you think that the MFD runs from the ECU? I would have thought that the MFD would be its own thing and just pick up the data that it needs from the various CUs on the serial bus.

If that's the case would anyone know if the internal board picks up a speed sensor or a park/brake wire? As far as i know, the menu selection 'greys' out when the car is at a speed over 20km/h. Mine is greyed out all the time.

I only just noticed this after having a new battery installed plus new ECU etc.

Very sure it doesn't pick anything up off the bus - cos it doesn't connect that way at all.

When I put an MFD in my R34 GTT - I had to connect it into the ECU and behind the dash- though I imagine it's slightly easier on an R34 GTR, as the wiring looms are already there - those are the signals it's expecting to receive - not something on a bus.

This page has a lot of information that might help, including pin-outs, etc.

12 minutes ago, jrm said:

Very sure it doesn't pick anything up off the bus - cos it doesn't connect that way at all.

When I put an MFD in my R34 GTT - I had to connect it into the ECU and behind the dash- though I imagine it's slightly easier on an R34 GTR, as the wiring looms are already there - those are the signals it's expecting to receive - not something on a bus.

This page has a lot of information that might help, including pin-outs, etc.

Thanks. So i'm an idiot. Reason the menu selection was greyed out was because i wasn't in the correct menu mode I.E wasn't on the single or dual gauge display.

All good now...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.
    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
×
×
  • Create New...