Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i have just bought an r33 gts-t. its got a pod exhaust and bov aprt rom that its stock as a rock how much boost can i run with a stock turbo??

also i read you dont have to piggy back the ECU if you change the spark plug gap from 1.1mm to 0.8 has any one tried this out?

any advice would be good i want to get it quicker with out spending a mint.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379078-where-to-go-from-stock/
Share on other sites

The stock turbo is generally a risk to say the least, a good flogging at high boost could blow it and it might take the motor with it. Stick to 9 or 10psi tops.

As for working it without spending a mint, you will need to spend about 3 grand to get a highflow, front mount and a remap.

Goodluck.

Hi guys i have just bought an r33 gts-t. its got a pod exhaust and bov aprt rom that its stock as a rock how much boost can i run with a stock turbo??

also i read you dont have to piggy back the ECU if you change the spark plug gap from 1.1mm to 0.8 has any one tried this out?

any advice would be good i want to get it quicker with out spending a mint.

cheers

I think you mean how much boost can the stock turbo run before blowing up. Mine has seen 20 psi a few times, 18 psi a few times, 16 psi quite a few times, 14 psi for ten months. It started leaking oil after ten months. Others haven't had my luck and their turbo has died rather quickly on far less boost.

As far as gapping the plugs go I'd say that almost everyone on this site has done it. Like GTScotT said you can get your turbo high flowed for around a grand, you can get a front mount from ebay with a pipe kit for $500 then put it in yourself, buy a second hand power fc and hand controller for a grand and get it tuned for around $500. On 12 psi this setup will net you around 190 rwkw. This will pretty much max out your injectors and your afm. So there is your $3000.

Then you spend another $500 on some refurbished injectors, $300 on a new z32 afm and a couple of hundred on a fuel pump and you'll be looking at closer to 250rwkw.

Or if you are like some others here you go out and spend $4.5k on a turbo setup that will rip you a new one.

You did say you wanted to keep it cheap tho. Run 9 or 10 psi with gapped plugs and it will go better.

yeah changing heaps of stuff down the track is good but for now ill just run 10 psi and gap the plugs and see how it goes im thinking of investing in a r34gtt intercooler apparently they bolt in where the stock one is and are good for 200rwkw should go a bit better with that stuff with out throwing hell cash at it for now

Or you could be like me and sell a car wanting a lot of money spent for a car with the money spent but job done shit lol.

Somehow I wish I had another stock as a rock car to only do what mods I wanted as well as I can actually do them.

Careful not to buy another persons problem!

sell it and buy one with the work already done, cheapest way to make power.

Indeed this. I got my r33 GTSt cheapish. $6500. Already had a hd clutch and catback. Rest was stock. Now its worth $14k to me and that's not including labour of which I have done all of it. I would have bought something already done up. Not that I regret doing up my car (I kept all the stock parts) but I could have bought a forged GTSt already done up.

My advice is this... If you want a fast, reliable, good handling skyline then sell your stock one and use the cash toward getting one already done up. Do the boos mod but don't waste any money on it. You will save easily $5k in the long run. In my case that is less than a year.

yeah changing heaps of stuff down the track is good but for now ill just run 10 psi and gap the plugs and see how it goes im thinking of investing in a r34gtt intercooler apparently they bolt in where the stock one is and are good for 200rwkw should go a bit better with that stuff with out throwing hell cash at it for now

Personally, because I've been there, I would run 8psi through it while you still have a stock ECU. Mine would not run properly at all on 10psi. Easiest thing to do would be the high boost mid with the stock solenoid. Just have to cut and earth one wire and you get 7psi all the time. When you get an aftermarket ECU then go for 10-12psi

Read the tutorial on here for it. If you cut the wrong wire you'll have 5psi all the time instead

Now that would just be funny. That tutorial is easy to read and anyone should be able to do this mod. It was the first thing I did when I bought mine.

If your looking for cheap improvements buy yourself a decent bleed valve and wind in 10-12psi, gap plugs to 0.8mm, buy a second hand SAFC for $200, spend $200 getting it tuned and you'll get around 190rwkw with heaps more midrange. Not as much flexibility as a full ECU but much less cost and unless you are going to the next stage of mods you won't need it. You'll start to see the standard SMIC getting heat soaked so factor in a bigger, higher flowing FMIC. Be prepared to outlay for a new HD clutch and maybe a set of decent coilpacks in the near future as the standard one's are at least 15 years old.

Z

  • 1 month later...

hey guys sorry to add to this at a later date .. but ive bought a boost controller cranked it to 10psi and regapped the plugs and changed to the r34gtt smic cooler... im now tossing up between an safc computer, z32 nistuned ecu and a full blown after market power fc or microtech setup. i plan on in the future going high flowed turbo fuel pump and injectors big front mount cooler would the cheap safc computer not be able to cope with theses mods?? i just dont want to buy stuff that i am going to have to update down the track. the z32 ecus nistuned are great but its just as dear as a 2nd hand power fc it seems....

i would go nistune over power fc but it all comes down to your tuner go ask him what he would prefer and do according theres been a lot of power fc vs nistune and it seems nistune is starting to build some steam...power fc has had it's day time to come into the 21st century ang go nistune

i would go nistune over power fc but it all comes down to your tuner go ask him what he would prefer and do according theres been a lot of power fc vs nistune and it seems nistune is starting to build some steam...power fc has had it's day time to come into the 21st century ang go nistune

For R32 and R34 I agree but for an R33 there a number of complications I believe with getting a nistune setup running well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...