Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate if you got all this gear to go in your rs4s i hope the coilovers etc didnt come out of an rs4v cos they wont fit.

coilovers is the best thing i did to mine for better 'drivability' aka doesnt feel like your cornering in the titanic

rear is an active LSD, my rear wheels skip like a locked diff when turning close to full-lock

i actually like hicas and dont understand why people hate it so much

I am using coilovers from an auto stagea, but i'm aware that i need to swap the rear eyelet for a fork. I've got a welder so that is easy enough

Can anyone tell me what hicas lock I need to get? Is it the same as R33?

I am using coilovers from an auto stagea, but i'm aware that i need to swap the rear eyelet for a fork. I've got a welder so that is easy enough

Can anyone tell me what hicas lock I need to get? Is it the same as R33?

33gtr, its the auto guys who stuggle to lock their hicas (if its optioned) because their rear cradle is wider

33gtr, its the auto guys who stuggle to lock their hicas (if its optioned) because their rear cradle is wider

You sure its a GTR? I cant find ANY R33 GTR hicas lock kits (which suggests they dont have hicas), but there are plenty of R33 gtst ones.

weld from eyelet to fork? i wouldnt recomend it. if they are tein just contact them and buy the lower mounts

cant find them? they are everywhere mate. type HICAS LOCK BAR / LOCKER / LOCK OUT / DELETER into ebay or just jap

my fronts also dont turn when jacked up but my rears do(rears turn in opposite directions and fronts dont move at all). when i dump clutch and light up the rears, i pull 2 strips and the rear does lock up. but i think the front doesnt turn because it has to do with the transfer case locking up

as i stated earlier, my RS4S has an ACTIVE LSD, if you guy do some research on this you'll know how it works and why the wheels spin in opposite directions with the wheels off the ground.

perhaps the fronts wont turn due to the transfer case and atessa?

ive guessed it has an ALSD, but no ALSD light on the dash like the GTRs or other equipped cars...... i always though they had a mechanical LSD, then thought maybe viscous, but now ALSD. so many people on all diff forums claim so many diff things.

ive looked under it, but it didnt look like the ALSD's that i see on other skylines. but as long as it locks up when i have wheelspin is fiiine with me

ive guessed it has an ALSD, but no ALSD light on the dash like the GTRs or other equipped cars...... i always though they had a mechanical LSD, then thought maybe viscous, but now ALSD. so many people on all diff forums claim so many diff things.

ive looked under it, but it didnt look like the ALSD's that i see on other skylines. but as long as it locks up when i have wheelspin is fiiine with me

I think ALSD was an option on RWD only but could be wrong, if you dont have the lines going to your diff then it will be viscous. All stagea lsd's that I have seen were viscous only 260rs had mechanical lsd. The rs4s diff is a gtst 5 bolt center in a stagea housing, 260rs is an r32/33 (non V spec) mec diff in a stagea housing. Stagea housing is unique due to the mounting of the Altessa pump.

Ok so i just took delivery of it. Drives great except that it crunches into 4th gear, so i'll need to get that looked at

Regarding suspension, I've already got the following ready to install

Tein coilovers

Cusco Castor Rods

Whiteline swaybars

Adjustable front upper arms

Cusco Adjustable rear upper arms.

Alloy subframe lock kit

Is it worth getting a hicas lock kit? I'm not a big fan of letting the electronics decide what direction I should be going so i'm tempted to do that

This thing is a bit slow compared to our other stageas. I'm sure the 3076 i'll be installing on it shortly should resolve that issue though :)

Are Dayz S2 RS4S in black a common thing? I dont recall having seen one before

Also WHY NO CUPHOLDERS!??!! There must be a reason they decided to install a blanking plate on the RS4S' rather than the cup holders under the stereo.

I would personally steer clear of tein's, they are designed for japanese roads which are alot smoother than ours, they will be really stiff and will anoy you after a while. Ive got koni adjustables in my RS4 S and they are awesome.

Hicas lock bars are a good idea there are a few going round or you can actually lock the standard hicas up yourself.

There is a few DAYZ getting around, mine is a DAYZ.

weld from eyelet to fork? i wouldnt recomend it. if they are tein just contact them and buy the lower mounts

cant find them? they are everywhere mate. type HICAS LOCK BAR / LOCKER / LOCK OUT / DELETER into ebay or just jap

Heres a really good one and im pretty sure when i was looking at doing mine these fit the stagea

http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-for-nissan.html

I live in an area with shit roads and run Tein's and they are fine. So you have RS4 rear shocks that you want to use on an RS4S? if so just change the rear hubs to RS4 you will need to press out the hicas ball joints and swap them to the RS4 hubs, not an easy job. New ball joints are a rip off $130ish ea. There are other rack ends available that delete the ball joint and use a bush, I would convert to these. Your other iption would be to buy a pair of rear R33 gtr coilovers and swap the springs & tops etc, either way will cost $$$

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 2 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...