Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hoping someone can give me a bit of information here,

I recently brought an R33 gtst and the bloke i got it off said it had a highflowed turbo but thats all he knew about that. The impeller is aluminium and being a series 2 it should be nylon so this leads me to believe it probably has been highflowed.

My questions are is there any way to tell for sure it has been highflowed? How much boost is "safe" for a highflowed turbo? also where might it have been highflowed how many places actually do it ?

Oh and the car has 3' pipes from turbo back, Pod and a big FMIC

Edited by Slattery Gts-t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379264-highflowed-turbo-help/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The age old - How long is a piece of string?

There are 100s of places that could hi-flow a turbo, and to any specification.

If it's a hi-flow, it is very possible it wont even have an ID tag - or that it's even correct.

The only way to really know is the following:

1. Find out from previous owner who made it, and any reciept/info/specs

2. Pull the turbo off, measure both the front and rear wheels = 100% known specs.

Unless you do this all you can do is wind boost into it, tune accordingly, see what happens.

Ok took the turbo off today

It has an id tag from MTQ engine systems with a serial number and part number, also the impeller is 69MM across ( I took the impeller housing off to measure ), The inner diameter of the outlet tube is 52MM from memory

Also, the compressors or turbines arent made of nylon at all, ever, on any turbo.

actually 25neo turbos have nylon compressor wheels and ceramic exhaust wheels

nylon reduces the mass moment of inertia of the wheel = less lag

It's not a hair dryer, or a electric supercharger.

It's a turbo charger. They can reach speeds of up to 150,000 rpm,nare balanced to perfection, and have a lot of pressure applied to the compressor wheel due to physics.

Do you think something made of plastic or nylon would be able to withstand this?

Have the people crapping on about them being made of plastic even seen a real one?

I guess the pistons inside your engine need to be light, so let's just make them out of plastic too?

So you're just going from what the internet says, with nonform of confirmation, or have you actually touched one, and inspected one closely?

You obviously haven't. You also obviously don't realise how much stress a compressor wheel has to endure.

Mafia - they are really Nylon - i know it doesnt seem likely but I have swapped my stock turbo with another one plus seen a whole bunch of others at the wrecker first hand and in this case the internet is correct - take a look at one if you can and you will see that it is really some sort of black plastic.

I will have my turbo off in around 1 week and will happily post a photo of the compressor.

I'd take a chance with it then mate, if it's stamped and the diametres are bigger than factory. Other than that, get back onto the guy you bought it from and try and get some receipts or something.

Re: Nylon Compressor wheel. I have a R34 with a Neo RB25 in it. It has a stock turbo on the side. Said stock turbo has a nylon synthetic polymer compressor wheel. It's okay for your mind to be blown every once in a while mate. :thumbsup:

The funny thing about the limitations of the stock turbo though, is the ceramic turbine wheel is what fails first under heat load. Go go fantastic plastic! :D

So you're just going from what the internet says, with nonform of confirmation, or have you actually touched one, and inspected one closely?

You obviously haven't. You also obviously don't realise how much stress a compressor wheel has to endure.

The funny thing about the limitations of the stock turbo though, is the ceramic turbine wheel is what fails first under heat load. Go go fantastic plastic! :D

LMFAO.

Just when you think you knew it all...

FANTASTIC PLASTIC COMES TO COCK SLAP YOU IN THE FACE!!

Just a note, my series 2 rs4s turbo front wheel looks to be an metal looking compound where the chunks are missing, looks similar to cracked aluminum texture. I have it sitting on my bench without a front housing if someone wants a pic. It may be nylon, I'm not saying for sure what it is but to me personally it looks metalish.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...