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Bring on the meet, Alex!

Good to see you got results, and good to hear you're happy with Yavuz and his work. I wish I could have made it to come out and catch up while you were down there, but got busy on the day and had plans to head into the city that night, so I had to get everything sorted before I headed into town. Looks like you're making great progress so far, though!

Well, got the O2 sensors back in today. The car is doing my head in a bit now. wacko.gif

First thing I noticed is that the idle hunts when its hot. But only when its in park or neutral. When its in drive its steady. Next thing I notice is that there is a lot of pinging in the mid to low range at load- IE coming on boost. I think its trying to trim too much fuel out of there, or the timing is too advanced there with the O2 sensors in.

So- I have left the O2 sensors plugged in but changed the target fuel table off 14.7 so the ECU doesn't use them to trim. Back to open loop.

The Idle, well, thats a bit of a mystery. I had a crack at it this arvo- this is what I found. Now the Idle is a little lower (I performed idle re-learn, and the closed loop lowers the idle too) it has more vacuum, and has brought on the hunting. When in gear, there is a little more load on the motor, and less vacuum- no hunting. To go with the hunting, the ECU was compensating by dumping fuel in at idle- the compensation went from 100 %to 120% and dropped just as sharply.

I found if I block off the PCV then the hunting appears to disappear. I've only tried this on open loop at the moment. Will have to change the mapping /flash again to get it back into closed loop...

I took out the PCV. It seemed OK, I could suck through it the correct way, when I blew through it, it offered a fair level of resistance, but did pass some air through- didn't completely seal. Its that how it should be or should it seal 100%?

Thoughts?

I can bring the lower ramp on area off Closed loop as a target, and then add fuel. Any area in the target map where it says 14.7 the ECU will trim or add fuel to compensate. As soon as it pops out of 14.7 to another area, compensation gets pegged at 100% and the table compensates.

Really its a job for the tuner. While I understand the process, I'm not that confident in my ability, and tuners have a better "feel" for the process.

Still doesn't get to the root of my hunting idle.

Scotty, hunting as in raising and lowering revs. All sorted now- don't use the O2 sensors- much better-er! You can watch it go away by cancelling the O2 sensor correction. Just turned them off by running 14.58 in the low load zones, instead of 14.70.

Interesting fact I found out today- my economy is awesome according to the factory computer; about 1100 kms full tank range. What it actually means is that the trip computer is calibrated to the stock max base fuel schedule! So now I can put the foot down, and it won't dip below 10km / Litre on my leafy thingo.

Back in reality, the actual fuel economy is good. I think if I'm careful with it, it'd out do a stock model, since I'm running leaner than stoic on cruise. Haven't driven enough to actually get a solid figure, but I'm at 1/2 tank now, and have done 220kms with lots of short trips, lots of idling and round the block testing. Economy at cruise seems very good.

Plumbed in a sneaky catch can over the last couple of days- took a little while to sort some issues!

The bloody thing leaked under vacuum, which meant my idle was way lean. So I sorted that out by reassembling the can with some glue on the fluid level. looked at the data, and sorted out the idle so it was nice. Had to get some hoses from pirtek- as normal the ones given to you are shit. Packed it full of steel wool! So I guess I'll see what I get!

7004989613_f8382c70d2.jpg

7004990549_fed4f78b64.jpg

No other real news. Changed a few gearbox values to get the shift feeling nice and positive. Hopefully get it to the track in a little while and post a 1/4 mile time for interests sake.

  • 3 weeks later...

Bit of an update. I've been working through all the tune related stuff, and realised I made a bit of an error :P

When I look at the Intake cam table, it has occured to me that I'm not getting any signifigant level of intake cam advance on the motor! So I should be able to make some more power there- seeing I got 185kw wtih 4 psi and no cam timing!

Currently I'm pumping people for info about tuning VQ35s in the states and UK. There are a few tricks that allow them to run more safely. Once I have all the ideas, I'll book in back in at Unigroup, do some more light load work to get the AFRs working a bit better, get a grip on cam timing, and add a couple of Psi more boost to about 6psi. Hopefully conditions will be a bit better to produce some more power!

Stay tuned. Pun intended.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, thought I'd put a bit of an update in.

I have a Mishimoto Radiator on the way, along with a Nismo thermostat- for moar Nismo. Get to bleed the system again...yay.

I have also given in and bought the great VQ35 mod - the 5/16ths plenum spacer. So they should be making their way to me shortly. This is all coming from Conceptz in the states. Have bought a bit of stuff off them, and Coz has always been helpful and has said the gains are significant for FI motors.

Have been tuning the cruising AFRs a bit, they were too lean, but now they are a little rich, so hopefully tomorrow I'll get if set nicely to go up Putty Road.

Also gave it a bit of a squirt last night, and took notice of a few numbers. Temp was about 20 degree, intake temps were about 25 degrees. I saw a AFM volts of 4.93v, which means I have really not got room to increase boost with my current AFM (the max we saw on the dyno was 4.7v) I have a little Turbosmart Boost tee in my hands now, and will be fitting that. What it means is that I'll have to get the replacement MAF GT from abbeymotorsports. Otherwise I'll just run into the AFM cut.

http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/uprev-maf-gt.html

This will apparently read up to the 600hp range. Plenty enough for me! Best thing is, its pre-programmed in the Uprev software. So I go in, click a button, and the car will instantly run on the new AFM. No mucking around like a Z32 MAF- although since I can alter the values I could run one of them if I wanted too.

I'll let you know how it all goes!

G35 Mishimoto rad?

Be interested to know if it is a better fit than in an NM35, ie less/no cutting since the PM35's use a different unit from factory to the NM's.

What happened to the spacer being a waste for FI? :P

Oh, and +1 for Coz.

We'll see about the spacer. I'll run it up with the spacer on, and see if it makes a difference at the same boost.

Happy to be wrong if it means more power!

Rad should be fine. Says its no wide than the stocker, hope it isn't! I got teh pipez everywhere!

Hi Dave, thanks!

Uprev is an option on the second series cars, that is the ones with a vq35.

Unfortunatly, it's not an option be the earlier model cars with the vq25det. you have to use piggybacks on these.

Basically, the software itself is a download from their site. What you pay money for is the cable that has a licence report. The diagnostics software is open, however the tuning software is limited to one car. It's just like aftermarket computer tuning software, and easier to use than nistune, unigroup told me. I still retain the maps, and can tune if needed. The cars have factory wide bands, so you can see the afr without getting on the dyno or wide band.

Hoping to get some moar power soon!

So I got asked what it sounds like. Well, since the turbo went in, its much quieter. I made this quick vid to give you an idea.

http://www.flickr.co...N07/6959301326/

width="400" height="300" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=8949aedd5c&photo_id=6959301326" bgcolor="#000000" allowFullScreen="true"

I so suck at video embedding. Anyone?

Edited by PN-Mad

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