Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

hey peeps,

similar thing. I changed my spark plugs on the weekend and just wanted to get some thoughts on the state of them as i have no idea about plugs and what they can indicate etc. (click on pic for larger view)

do these look alright? they are BCPR7ES plugs in a tuned 220rwkw RB25DET.

car runs like a dream and makes great power for the mods. compression test a while back came up essentially perfect, catch can gets no blowby oil in it etc etc

2 main things i also want to query/comment on for these plugs tho.

1]the tips have a fair bit of brown on them. Tho i did also run octane booster tabs which ive now learned arent good on sensors or plugs n turn plugs brown. is this it in action? -i only used about 2 tanks worth of boosted fuel. N a fair while ago (1000+ kms). otherwise do these tips tell a story? good or bad?

2]one of the spark plugs (second from the left) which was from cylinder 5 is browned around the socket section while all the others arent (nice n silver as per pic).

i have 2 possible causes-

- the rocker covers had leaked quite badly around cyclinder 5 & 6 and there was a film of oil making its way down into the spark plug holes, so might have got a coating on it n burned on like that.

- it did look like there was a possibility that the seal on the spark plug wasnt perfect as on one tiny part of the washer it looked like it had some carboning/burning so perhaps a bit of combustion gas forcing its way past...

any thoughts n comments people? im new to the whole spark plug reading game...

post-68049-0-37311600-1318912793_thumb.jpg

Its called corona stain. It stains brown because of corona spark which is the gap between the insulator and nut and a spark traveling up the plug.

Go on google and type in NGK corona stain or spark and there is enough info for you :)

u sure? the corona stain is indicated as occurring on the insulator section, n not the hex/socket (metal) as on mine..?

If it is indeed a corona stain tho it would basically be the oil that had wept down in there had attracted to the hex section and burned on. No worries, and even less worries now that iv dont the whole cam cover seals and cleaned up all the oil that wept around.:thumbsup:

anybody able to comment on the state of the tips?

Edited by jjman

u sure? the corona stain is indicated as occurring on the insulator section, n not the hex/socket (metal) as on mine..?

If it is indeed a corona stain tho it would basically be the oil that had wept down in there had attracted to the hex section and burned on. No worries, and even less worries now that iv dont the whole cam cover seals and cleaned up all the oil that wept around.:thumbsup:

anybody able to comment on the state of the tips?

Sorry, the OP has corona stain.

Yours looks like a manufacturing fault in the plug, the washer may also be the problem because it looks like its getting a lot of heat. Also people who pull there plugs off a lot dont understand but the washer cant be good for more than a couple of looks of your plug. Your tips are a nice orange-brown so nothing is wrong with the engine.

yeah nothing wrong with your plugs. when the tips, etc are a coffee colour then you aren't running too rich or too lean. as for the build up on the socket of the plug, could be what you said (leaking rocker cover, etc) but probably nothing too drastic

cheers again for the responses people.

Will check the No.5 when i change this next set of plugs for any similarity on the hex.

I looked closer last night and there is indeed a very slight corona stain on that No.5 plug too (nothing on the others) so likelihood is that is was the oil that seemed down in that area.

  • 2 weeks later...

ha! give me some feedback on this then. My peice of shit bunky (1995 hyundai sonata- 2L 16 valve) started missing pretty hard recently so i decided to get in and change the plugs- see photos.

I think the rings of the valve seals are pretty rude as it drinks oil n farts black smoke as a habit.

check these plugs that came out. Also had lots of chalky residue on the top of the plug where the lead attaches (already cleaned off by this point tho as i didnt want any falling into the chamber as i changed em)- anybody have any idea what this is?

post-68049-0-46063700-1320039240_thumb.jpg

Edited by jjman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...