Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hows it going, ive got a problem with my R33, recently ive experienced a problem i went last week to power cruise and while dropping the clutch and sitting on the limiter for about 5 seconds and letting off ive developed this screach from the turbo, its a high pitched screach not the nice type of one, it happens only when boost comes on after 3.5k, i orginally thought it was the diff or gearbox but you can easily drive the car light footedly to the limiter without the noise.

I did remove my piping yesterday and havent noticed any shaft play on the turbo however i did notice oil in the intake piping towards the plenum and the intake pipe to the pod filter, i did however check the manifold and dump were secure to the turbo and they were and i couldnt see any signs of leaks.

I am not sure if the presence of oil could mean a bearing is blown or something, though i am guessing the sound is from the turbo as when i rev the engine i can hear it coming from the turbo.

So could you give me a few tips what could be the issue, because im guessing its the turbo and it needs a rebuild if not, could you tell me what possibly could cause that sound.

The car is tuned btw and its been running on 12psi, however when i turned the boost to about 6 psi it still made the screaching sound but not as loud.

Please give me some advice guys

NickPerth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379443-r33-turbo-screach-while-on-boost/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, ive had a similar problem, dont worry about the oil in the intake pipe, thats normal, its from the rocker cover breather, thats why people get catch cans, anyhow, a few months back i heard a slight squeek from my turbo when on boost, as the months went past it got worse and worse untill one day coming from work i floored it and the squeek got significantly louder and the car seemed to loose alot of power.

i thought it was shaft play, so i bought another turbo, took my one off and the propelers seemed fine on both ends, anyhow, i put the new turbo on and there was a significant differance in the sound and power of the car, it was like driving a totally new car, im still not too sure what was wrong with the old one might have been the internals of the turbo that were f**k*d.

hope that helps, good luck

yeah id say this sounds like turbo bearings going.

mine di it as was the case with miga24. Pretty common on stock rb turbos, especially when u start winding the boost up.

However how it occurs can vary but often it ends up taking out the rear turbine wheel when the bearings get so shit the rear turbine wheel falls apart from the instability/touching the housing.

look at getting a new turbo soon. There is the outside chance you can lunch a motor when the turbo does end up failing totally...

never heard of a warped manifold before on an RB...

are you sure this wasnt a mis-diagnosis due to the mechanic seeing the broken manifold studs n an exhaust leak n so thought that the manifold had warped when really it just needed a new exhaust manifold gasket n set of head studs?

yeah its pretty common, the way it is designed, the length of it causes it to warp..this is why others use split manifolds..

i think its ok while bolted down but once you snap a stud or 2 it then has room to move and warp.depend how hard you treat it and how early you are realized they snapped.

i was told when mine were replaced he used stronger studs than stock so they wont snap.. i havent really put them to the test though :D

f*k..

im doing the exhaust manifold job next weekend. (first n last studs are snapped off) I havent got an exhaust leak or anything so praying its just 18yr old studs calling time as opposed to a warp.

son of rajab please, have mercy on my wicked soul and forgive the manifold its sins!!!!

Alright thanks guys, well i am going to go and take the turbo off and manifold and check all the gaskets tomorrow and see what i come and get back with, also if its the bearings on the turbo would you recommend me getting a turbo rebuild kit from like eBay since Ive seen them for about $50 or so. Only reason i am saying this is, cause i want to get a high mount setup at the end of the year or early next year but i don't have the cash right now and i want to use something in-term for now just to hold off for another 3 months, before i upgrade.

good lcuk..

n from what i can gather- faaark no to the rebuild kit. Turbo's also need to be spun up and balanced. N im guessing you arent going to be able to do that to it...?

U can often pick up second hand R33 turbos for 150-250 these days. That'l see you through to the end of the year id say...

Hey hows it going, i took my turbo off yesterday and i chucked everything over it and it was all fine and then i preceded to take off my manifold and i noticed i 3 snapped turbo manifold studs, would you think that broken manifold turbo studs could be the problem, as i thinking of getting some new studs and repairing them and then going to put it back together and see if its fixed the solution.

iv never heard one but based n your symptoms and that you have 3 snapped studs (i take it 2 are on one header pipe?- so essentially no studs left holing that pipe on?) id say thats highly likely...

Im putting mine in this weekend to have the manifold studs n gasket re-done. Ill let you konw how it goes n if the guy is decent, and what the price ends up being...

so yeah. had my exhaust manifold stud n gasket done.

There was actually 5 snapped studs in total that had to be drilled out but the guy managed it no worries and the manifold was within tolerances for straightness so it was able to go back on with the fresh studs n gasket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...