Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the car running tonight. Took it for a run with the bleed valve fully closed and boost was definitely peaking at about 7psi (assuming the halfway point on the boost gauge is 350mmHg as the max is 700mmHg). How do I tell if I have an R33 actuator? What kind of problem could be causing such a low peak if I do have an R32 actuator? Is it likely to be a leaking line to my boost gauge?

Any ideas guys? I recall the guy I bought if off saying it was restored to the 'factory' boost of 7 pounds by a tuning shop, could they have changed something? I have ordered a turbotech and pretty keen to nut out this issue so I can use it.

Moved my aftermarket boost gauge so I could see it properly and did see a peak of 0.65 kg/cm2 (nearly 10 psi).

Both my dash gauge and aftermarket gauge are hooked up to the intake manifold not the turbo itself, how much higher would the boost be at the compressor?

Did a test where I disconnected the t-piece which connects both gauges to the manifold and the aftermarket read 0 while the dash gauge was reading about 100mmHg vacuum, I guess that shows which one is to be trusted.

Don't worry about it. At the power levels you're making (ie essentially standard) the extra boost at the compressor is well within safe limits* when you're at 10 psi at the plenum.

*safe limits is a rubbery number of course because some standard turbos will let go at standard boost, and some will last forever at 14psi at the plenum - when 14 psi at the plenum could mean that it's more like 16 at the compressor. It's impossible to completely re-assure you, but it's unreasonable to try to scare you or let you scare yourself at the boost that you're at.

My 3 R31 RB20s all ran 7psi stock.

Nics red top

ECCS redtop stock turbo.

ECCS redtop RB25 roller turbo

Ran the ceramic RB25 turbo for 11 years at 14 psi, never a problem.

The Turbotech is a lot better than Turbospike sorry smart or bleeder type controllers.

With your setup 12psi will run forever.

Even my RB20DET-R ECCS redtop with a stock bunch of bananas manifold and TO4E turbs ran 7psi stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...