Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Users,

After having owned a R33 GTS-T for a number of years, i had to get rid of it as i was purchasing a house.... Biggest mistake of my life. (selling the car, not buying a house)

A number of years later, (last week even) i came across this beautiful looking white thing on the side of the road that i have never seen before..

A 1984 MR30 Nissan Skyline with a L24E motor. Picked it up for $450, and the sign said needs radiator replacement. The Radiator tank, overflow bottle and engine was filled with this yellowy looking liquid, so i changed it. Got a new water pump and a new thermostat. Just waiting to put it in when i have some time off..

Now my main question really is.....

1. Where can i buy parts from. Pannels and trimming, etc... All of the L24e components are easily available from Repco/supercheap. (chasing some RS taillights also)

2. What motor/s are a direct fit to the MR30 sedan. Being it is an automatic also..... Realistically i would like to fit an RB20 or SR20, or the likes to it. Maybe even an RB26DETT. (dreaming) and where is the best place to look)

Have read alot of the forums in regards to the MR's, but alot of them are just troubleshooting promblems of which i dont have.

SO if anyone can help me out it would be much appreciated.

Will attach a picture when i get the chance.

Thanks guys!

Michael.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/
Share on other sites

The only motors that slot straight in is either an L20ET (JDM) or your L24E, anything else requires some modification.

RB conversions are relatively easy and there is info on it here as a couple of guys have already done it.

RS Tail lights are about $150/200 a pair and ebay.com.au or Yahoo Japan through an importer is just about the only way.

Cheers & good luck with your new toy,

D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054560
Share on other sites

If the auto is the one with overdrive you can get a shift kit done on it (Model Ln71b or something)

Also pretty easy to boost line pressure for quicker gear changes.

Panles are VERY thin on the ground, best source is find another $400 roadside find and keep it for spare parts...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054678
Share on other sites

good stuff mate

i am just building up my Mr30 with a rb25

buy as may spares as ur can is all i can say i am onto my 3rd parts car just in case

the auto to manual conversion is not hard and cheap i actual have a full set up laying around

here is a cheap set of rear JDM tail light for u

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-DR30-Skyline-Tail-Lights-FJ20-/140616015854?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bd5e1fee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054874
Share on other sites

what about L26/28 dont they just bolt in Dennis?

I have 2 front sump L28, so yes they will bolt in, not sure what you need to do to the EFI to overcome the larger displacement though,

maybe higher fuel pressure ( adjustable fuel regulator), or 'tweek' the AFM,

or maybe trick the ECU into thinking its running colder than it is ( put a resistor in line with the ECU Temp sensor, this makes it run richer )

or go aftermarket EFI

Nigel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054914
Share on other sites

what about L26/28 dont they just bolt in Dennis?

L26/28 are all rear sump & our Skylines are all front sump, so mods have to be done to the oil pick up to convert to front sump plus something has to be done for dip stick to check oil. Either drill the block or fabricate something up the side of the engine, but whichever, it is a modification.

D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6056485
Share on other sites

I think the Patrols were MID bowl sump...

The mods are not hard to do with the 280z engine. Ive seen a L20b oil pickup used without much modification. for a dip-stick, a tube can be welded to the side of the sump bowl at a near vertical angle, then insert dip stick. Would take an hour to do if you had all the welding kit.

The L24e ECU (which is rich as fk) will run the L28e engine, some AFM flap spring adjustment would make it a bit better.

Just use the original L24e Loom (incl the cold start and idle stuff)

Oh and there is a difference between the Manual and Auto distributors. (use according to your trans)

If I had spare money when I had the Hatchback, It would of been a definite option. (now all the spare cash goes to car Rego and self funded education!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6057140
Share on other sites

Also forgot to add...

factor in an injector replacement, the old ones are guaranteed to leak or be blocked. If they dont now, they will in time!

Suitable hosetail types are best found on ebay US as they are used in a heap ofother cars there, and lots of smaller companies are licensed to reproduce original manufacturer parts (Lucas do a good one)

They can still be had here in Aus, at twice the price. ($600 a set instead of $300)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6057154
Share on other sites

Hi Again Lads ,

Sorry about the late reply from me. Been out of town for work.

Thanks for all your help.

On the weekend i changed the water pump over and the thermostat. AND, the car still overheats. I will do a complete clean and flush of the radiator this weekend.. and if it is the radiator, i have a spare R33 Alluminimum radiator that i plan to retro-fit into it.

But any suggestions on why it would overheat??

And well... where would i find an engine from to do a conversion.

Im from QLD, and dont really want to have to get a mod plate, so i should get it going, register it and then do the modifications....

I have done a few engine conversions before, but not for an engine that is not designed to be in that car. Eg, i have put in a 4G92 Mivec import into an a 4G91 CC Lancer, and put a new engine into a hilux surf. But nothing that will be this hard.....

How far off will the engine mounts be if i used an SR20 or Rb25/20/30?.. What about an FJ20?.

Am still getting that picture up too guys hah.

Cheers,

Michael.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6066892
Share on other sites

Another question..

What about an aftermarket Airflow Sensor doovie.. so i can change the intake around?? The way its set up with that big useless metal box that attaches to the airbox is a bit silly... the tiny little intake needs re-jigging i think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6066983
Share on other sites

or not - a P90 head with flat-top pistons is the best designed L6 NA combo.

The 240Z head runs smaller valves than the later stuff, and is guaranteed to have been bastardised by experts several times over since the early '70's...

I've run a standard N42/N42 L28 with aftermarket EFI in an MR30 and it turned just shy of 70rwkW (automatic). That engine's last effort in my Z on the dyno was 144rwkW, but 12psi will do that...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6067519
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To clarify, I meant nismo bushes, not control arms (don't even think that's a thing for my car). So the suspension specialist said, if I buy those nismo bushes which are perfectly centered it will cause my car to veer in one direction. Whereas he said the current offset bushes that I have were put in on purpose to fix that issue. This will be my third wheel alignment if I put these bushes in lol. My chassis is straight, all my rails are clean.
    • OK, well, in that case, the suspension specialist is either a moron, or you aren't understanding what he was trying to tell you. Nismo arms are not really different than stock arms. Both are fixed geometry. I don't know if the Nismo ones are a little shorter than the stockers (or perhaps even a little longer) or the same length, but....if you swap from stock to Nismo, whatever happens to one side will happen to the other side. It will not cause it to steer left or right. That is unless you have adjustable bushes in your stockers, and they happen to be adjusted to dial out some bent chassis shenanigans. But, if that were the case, you'd just put adjustables in the Nismo arms anyway, because Nismo arms are essentially just expensive stock arms. And doing a wheel alignment is just a weekly thing in my world. I have had the suspension apart so many times this year that I've lost count and just about worn out a torque wrench. I'm out in the shed right now cutting up some alloy section and making bases for my new stringline setup. Got to make new swivel plates next, then I'm good to do toe properly, as well as camber and bump steer.
    • Yeah, nah. Not a thing. The gasket between the top of the plenum and the runners is far more likely to blow out when it gets old, and not really at ~14 psi. These things have been run to double that for 30 years without that being a common thing.
    • I plan to pull the intake manifold off and check the gaskets, i read that the block to manifold gasket can blow over 14psi and when i picked up the car it was set to 1.2bar on the controller. Send the injectors out for cleaning. Ill also pull the cam covers off and do an inspection, check some valve lash. Someone also said that the timing belt can rub or vibrate against the belt cover and make that sound. Definitely need to get an AFR gauge on it, if it was lean idling im sure it wont be happy
×
×
  • Create New...