Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how is it dangerous?

Im sure you are smart enough to figure out why its dangerous.

Does it kick down other gears as it should without delay? I reckon the box might be on its way out, perhaps drop it into an automatic's place and get them to take a look. But as Krishy said, the ultimate solution is to get a manual cog swapper.

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks guys, yer seams a manual box might just be the way to go. I'll probley take it round to the local ultratune sometime this week and get it checked out just thought id ask here first.

Hey guys can anyone tell me whether I'll need a retune if I put my rear muffler back on? Car currently has a straight through 3" system and the muffler is a big oval rear one. I just need to be able to start it in the morning without waking the whole town up. For next week anyway.

Het fellaz,

Bit of a nissan noob, had rx7's for years but slowly learning the nissan way... :) :)

I need some help with my new ride, i just bought an A31 ceffy fitted with an R32 RB20det and the wipers, temp gauge and rev tacho dont work. Bloke i've bought it off said they all worked before the engine conversion. Just wanted to see if anyone else on here has done a similar conversion and came across the same problem??

Or even point me in the direction of a workshop that does alot of engine conversion work that could possibly help me out. From what im lead to believe is the plugs from ceffy body loom and 32 ecu loom have different pinouts to those 3 things.. Got a mate helping me out who's an auto elec but we just need some pics of where the prob lies or some extra info.. had a few cracks at it but with no luck on fixing it.. aaaaahhh! haha

Anyone that could help out with some info would be greatly appreciated. i wanna see if we can get it done first without spending big bucks at a shop... Its the only thing stopping me from driving it on the road so im mad keen to get it fixed asap.

Hope you guys can help and dont mind doing so. Thanks in advance.

Jared

send >>Simon-S14<< a PM

he will be able to sort you out

Yeah thanks mate, got in contact with him and he's coming around early/mid next week to get it fixed.

Sounds pretty confident and i cant wait to get this shit sorted.

Cheers guys

I would say coils adrian, they've always been a weakness of holden's. Speak to Mark at K&A auto next to castle plaza, tell them sam who used to work there sent you. They've dealt with any problem you can throw at them.

  • 3 weeks later...

installed two gt 2860 -5s in an r32 gtr and took it for a drive tonight, 5 k's or so it was fine, til it started making this high pitched squealing sort of noise. freaking out we thought it was the turbos gone because of an oil block or something. had 3 of us look over everything in the engine bay for undone clamps, oil leaks etc... nothing

everything was put back on the turbos correctly, oil change was done before first run, (car had been on stands for about 4 months due to installing new clutch and turbos)

one guy that looked at said that because the gearbox was taken out the engine had to slide back, which could have crushed an oil line perhaps??

old turbos (stock) ran 11 pound these run 14 so its nothing to do with that? high pitched pressure squeal?

but we really think its the turbos, we didnt pre - lube the turbos with oil either. which some people tend to do.

car is being looked at tomorrow but if anyone has any thoughts or ideas help is definitely appreciated ...

Gauges on my Stag are freaking out.

Temp reads at full hot, fuel reads at full tank (when it's not full), speed wont read when driving, rev's just bounce on 1k rpm and wont really go over that when driving and the KM's are reading 999,999km when it should only have 60,000km on it (it's a digital readout)

I've figured out how to make the gauges actually work though at times. I just switch it to on without starting it, let the gauges settle to where they need to be and then start it. This seems to make everything work EXCEPT the km readout is still at 999,999km.

Something electrical I'm guessing and I'm not too keen to mess with electrics in cars ever again after a bad experience.

Any ideas?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...