Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah dude, totally. I effed that up. The Vehicle Rebuild Kit. or whatever they call it.

-D

It's my car boys, thanks for the help. I'm pulling the oil drains off today and hopefully it's wet when I start it.

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Gauges on my Stag are freaking out.

Temp reads at full hot, fuel reads at full tank (when it's not full), speed wont read when driving, rev's just bounce on 1k rpm and wont really go over that when driving and the KM's are reading 999,999km when it should only have 60,000km on it (it's a digital readout)

I've figured out how to make the gauges actually work though at times. I just switch it to on without starting it, let the gauges settle to where they need to be and then start it. This seems to make everything work EXCEPT the km readout is still at 999,999km.

Something electrical I'm guessing and I'm not too keen to mess with electrics in cars ever again after a bad experience.

Any ideas?

Anybody?

Before I take it to some random auto electrition.

you thinking of a VRS kit mang?

Yeah dude, totally. I effed that up. The Vehicle Rebuild Kit. or whatever they call it.

-D

just fyi......it stands for "Valve Regrind Set".........all the gaskets required after removing a head

Prob not necessary considering it contains a head gasket :)

just fyi......it stands for "Valve Regrind Set".........all the gaskets required after removing a head

Prob not necessary considering it contains a head gasket :)

Sweet. I didn't know that.... good thing ruby told me to grab one when he removed my head, I needed just about all of the gaskets replaced

-D

if anyone is interested in what happened sam checked the turbos were receiving oil and they are, and has had it looked at, and it looks to be a factory fault with the turbo/s .. bearings or something perhaps. so off come the turbos and back they go.... fun times ahead

dont jinx it!! haha. im not sure if he has taken them back yet, but i think what they do is they have a bench setup or something.. and they will test the turbos there. sam seems to 100 % think its the turbos though. not sure who exactly he has taken it to this week. i reckon if its a fault in the turbo they should somehow compensate all the work that it was to do a turbo swap with engine staying in on a 32 gtr!

My bro has a 1986 MZ20 soarer, 7m-gte auto. Has an issue atm, auto box wont change out of first every now and again. im thinking loose connection somewhere or faulty sensor. Everything in the car is electric, could it be the speed sensor on the gearbox? He has had the thing at an auto trans place in Holden Hill, he seems to think its either the TPS or speed sensor.

Quick post on a problem I had this morning. I noticed my (factory) boost gauge was sitting on just under 0 vacuum, and only moved up a tiny bit above when on full throttle. After spending the rest of the trip to work swearing at it, and wondering if this had anything to do with the almost complete rewiring that it just had (long story..) I popped the bonnet when I got to work to hear a loud sucking sound.

The end of the pressure gauge transducer hose from the rear of the intake manifold had split. It was still in place, but cracked enough that it was sucking air. It looks like it was just a press on fit, so a few seconds with the side cutters, and a cable tie to keep things in place and it works again. Hooray... sometimes it can be simple things that go wrong with these cars!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...