The 'someone Help Me' Thread

[Madaz]

Na I higly doubt its detonation

There is a guide in the DIY section on how to pull apart your afm and what to look for and how to fix it

[GTR-32]

Cheers Madaz, will have a look at that, opened up the afm and one of the connections looks dodgy so will solder that one as well as all the other connections and see if that fixes the problem. only car I have to drive at the moment so really hope its not detonation, especially a month after I spend 3500 on the bloody thing.

[Madaz]

npz man, solder all the connections you don't want to have to revisit the job in 6 months time

detonation sounds like nuts and bolts in a tin can being rattled around (when its audible)

[GTR-32]

ahh ok, no, none of that, just feels like there's no fuel getting to the motor and stutters.

But yeah, borrowing a soldering iron from a mate on Saturday, i'll let you know if it fixes the problem.

[Aberax]

Okay...I need some help please!

I recent bought a OS Giken Twin Plate TS2CD second hand, it was recently rebuilt about 5000kms ago and came out of an early R32 GTR. I spoke to Otomoto who happens to be the OS Giken distributor in Australia, and they suggest I get a 12mm Sleeve release Bearing...which I did. I have had the clutch installed just the other day, and a few issues have arisen.

The clutch doesn't seem to engage/disengage correctly, you can have your foot on the clutch, try and put it in first (while the engine is running) and most of the time the car will begin to creep forward (if the brake is off) but not go into gear, same can be said for reverse, and really any other gear. Sometimes it will go in, but it goes in with a bit of force not freely like it should. Sometimes when either driving, or trying to put it in gear to take off, it will crunch/grind as it goes in. Quite often when going for 4th or 5th, it will sound like you are trying to put it into reverse while driving, or even down shifting or up shifting you go for another gear, and it just won't go in.

What can I do to fix it!?...other then buying another Clutch.

Other info:

12mm Release Sleeve Bearing

Push Rod has been shortened

Stock Slave Cylinder

Braided Clutch Line

Clutch Pedal has been adjusted inside the cabin

[Madaz]

Get the other size bearing as there is a pre 96 one

You will have to take it out and either compare with you old bearing or just take it to Nissan and get them to bring both out and buy.the one you don't have, this happened on my car

[Carbon 34]

Get the other size bearing as there is a pre 96 one

You will have to take it out and either compare with you old bearing or just take it to Nissan and get them to bring both out and buy.the one you don't have, this happened on my car

The pilot bearing in the back of the crank is the wrong one or stuffed not allowing freespin( frozen up)

Or pressure plates are locking up together the clutch runout is wrong , which hangs up the release bearing

All require removal

Or air pocket in slave cylinder braided nismo lines are a bugger first go round to get all the air out

[Aberax]

Get the other size bearing as there is a pre 96 one

You will have to take it out and either compare with you old bearing or just take it to Nissan and get them to bring both out and buy.the one you don't have, this happened on my car

Hmm, Ok I will have to have a look into it, I think I was using something like a 24mm bearing before as it was apparently a big difference between the sizes.

The pilot bearing in the back of the crank is the wrong one or stuffed not allowing freespin( frozen up)

Or pressure plates are locking up together the clutch runout is wrong , which hangs up the release bearing

All require removal

Or air pocket in slave cylinder braided nismo lines are a bugger first go round to get all the air out

The bearing in the crank shouldn't matter, as it wasn't replaced and was working before...unless something happened on install.

There shouldn't be an airpocket as we did bleed it for awhile with no air bubbles coming out.

[Luke_ENR34]

Pilot bearing could of been crushed if the box was forced together using the bolts.

[Madaz]

yeah Abe one is really thick and one really thin

[Carbon 34]

Hmm, Ok I will have to have a look into it, I think I was using something like a 24mm bearing before as it was apparently a big difference between the sizes.

The bearing in the crank shouldn't matter, as it wasn't replaced and was working before...unless something happened on install.

There shouldn't be an airpocket as we did bleed it for awhile with no air bubbles coming out.

It does matter Abe, if its stuffed it will do exactly as described ( past experiences of a broken bearing)if its not aligned as Luke said it kills it to pull the case together with bolts ??

Another issue is the disks if one is installed backwards that can do some odd things as it eats its way thru the pressure plates but that makes a bucket load of noise and death to the clutch is rapid

On 34 the braided hose goes into a little metal bleed /fitting deal and unless you hold it just right while bleeding it ,it puts the release point to close to the floor , not sure if the 33 has that as well about half way down from master cyl??

[newv35owner]

I have a dilemma, we are stuck in Canberra with our V35, with an issue that nobody can seem to diagnose and we have searched on the internet via google and the car trouble website with no such luck. So thought we would try here.

We drove the V35 - CVT to Canberra with no issues whatsoever, the car was an absolute dream. Arrived in Canberra and two days later the car seemed to go into "failsafe" mode ie stuck in first gear when driving. This was happening every time we drove it and so when it happened when first driving the car we went straight back to where we are staying so as not to drive it a long distance.

We saw a mechanic the day after it happened and they did get the error code and cleared this and the car drove fine for a short amount of time. The issue of being stuck in first gear happened again. We sourced the IPS sensors from Melbourne to change these over (as the failsafe issue happened in the past and this fixed the problem).

When driving to go and get these replaced - after nursing the car for a km or 2 driving at 40km so as not to over rev the car, she started changing gears and purring like the kitten she is. We changed the sensors and the problem persisted, we drove out to a friends workshop with a scan tool and the problem happened intermittently when first driving the car, but the scan tool was not able to read the issue at all. The mechanic who could read the issue is now closed until mid January and we are due back to SA well before then.

Do you guys have any idea as to what could possibly be the issue? We have spoken on the phone to the guys at Import Revolution in Melbourne, they are saying that it could be the solenoid in the CVT, which would mean dropping all the fluid out, changing the solenoid and replacing all the fluid in the gearbox (costing thousands) or it could be the fact that the wrong fluid has been put in the CVT in the past (this I dont think is possible as we changed the fluid completely about 3000kms ago and the fluid in there was still the original fluid with no issues at all) or the fluid could possibly be a little low - this we are checking today.

We are wracking our heads and it is driving us a little batty, we would like to try all other options before dropping all of the liquid gold out of the car. I know that not many of you know the V35 and loath the CVT but, thought we would try our luck.

[Race__24]

Try posting in the Stagea section

[D_Stirls]

Just to clear something up,

Ball bearing turbos don't need priming.

Bush bearing turbos do.

[Madaz]

no idea but since its no trouble its just as easy to prime it

when mine got installed high flow bb Simon M primed it

[Krishy]

what does "priming" a turbo involve?

[Madaz]

running the car without ignition to get oil into the turbo

[newv35owner]

Try posting in the Stagea section

Were you meaning that I try posting in the Stagea section?

[Race__24]

Sorry dude, wires crossed. You'll want the V series section

Edited December 25, 2012 by Race__24

[Tangles]

Please help with advice....

Stagea rb25det wouldn't start this morning.

Cleaned afm, afm connector & coilpack loom connector, and cleaned battery terminals. Checked fuel was getting to the fuelline.

Car started but stopped when I shut the door or bonnet. Also stopped without closing door or bonnet after a minute.

Found blown 7.5v ecu fuse under dash & replaced, but this hasn't fixed anything....

Replaced the old broken & dodgy positive battery connector & had immediate success. Car started nicely. Yay.

Car started, but shuts down when coming to a halt. Shut down at end of driveway, end of road, and when going slowly over a spoon drain.

Adjusted Idle control screw all the way out but didn't make a difference to the idle rpm.

What else do I try / clean? Serviced the car a few weeks ago but didn't change fuel filter as I find it hard to get to. Will try to replace when engine cools down later. Any suggestions are welcomed!!!