Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So lately my gear box has been feeling less smooth than usual and I occasionally grind a gear when the clutch is all the way in. I just got near gearbox oil put in (a good one) and still I don't think it feels as good as I want it to. I hear about people putting an additive to reduce friction and give smoother changes. I know there are negatives to using engine oil additives but what about gearbox oil additives? Has anybody used something similar? What did you think of it?

Here is the item I'm talking about http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Nulon-G70-Gearbox-Differential-Treatment-125g.aspx?pid=1397#Description

Dylan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379742-gearbox-oil-additive/
Share on other sites

People tend to have mixed results using these. There are also theories about the teflon additive glazing the synchros...not something you want to do as your gearbox will end up worse to drive than before. I'd be trying Redline Shockproof before putting one of these in...but it sounds like your gearbox needs some TLC AKA rebuild.

People tend to have mixed results using these. There are also theories about the teflon additive glazing the synchros...not something you want to do as your gearbox will end up worse to drive than before. I'd be trying Redline Shockproof before putting one of these in...but it sounds like your gearbox needs some TLC AKA rebuild.

pretty sure i read somewhere that the secret ingredient in redline shockproof is also teflon..

I put 2 tubes of that nulon shit in my box with castrol mineral oil, it didnt make any difference in everyday driving at all...however after a bit of spirited driving once the box is well warmed up it is really nice to shift..so yeah i dunno :unsure:

Found it..

REDLINE SHOCKPROOF There are concerns about using REDLINE SHOCKPROOF type gear oils inside manual transmissions. While this is truly an excellent product, it has been found that the heavy Teflon-like particles are quickly centrifuged out of the oil and will build up inside the center diff housing and around the synchronizers and inside of the gearshafts. After several oil changes this build up may block oiling passages inside the gearshafts that lubricate the needle bearings and can reduce the overall effectiveness of the synchronizers, leading to poor shift quality. Also this oil is has too high of a viscosity for winter use. Therefore we do not suggest using SHOCKPROOF in the transmission unless the transmission is to be serviced often or a dog box.

most here using it seem to not have any worries though..probably cause most service regularly..I'm def gunna try it next time..

Found it..

REDLINE SHOCKPROOF There are concerns about using REDLINE SHOCKPROOF type gear oils inside manual transmissions. While this is truly an excellent product, it has been found that the heavy Teflon-like particles are quickly centrifuged out of the oil and will build up inside the center diff housing and around the synchronizers and inside of the gearshafts. After several oil changes this build up may block oiling passages inside the gearshafts that lubricate the needle bearings and can reduce the overall effectiveness of the synchronizers, leading to poor shift quality. Also this oil is has too high of a viscosity for winter use. Therefore we do not suggest using SHOCKPROOF in the transmission unless the transmission is to be serviced often or a dog box.

most here using it seem to not have any worries though..probably cause most service regularly..I'm def gunna try it next time..

The winter part use, is that for Australia or the US? As our winters differ to the US's, which is why they may experience those problems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If there's a next time, next exit after mine is Costco 😛
    • OK. But what about parts of the block that, when assembled, were twisted into a position that pushed into the void space, which, when disassembled, then released that force and opened back up, thus putting the grout into tension? Would effectively just pull the cast iron off the grout at the interface, leaving a tiny void and benefitting not much at all. Swings, and roundabouts. It's like putting something tiny into the fleshlight and finding out you needed a smaller one, to perhaps follow your area of expertise.
    • Nah. You buy a kit that has shorter tubes.
    • I didnt present too many conclusions because I wanted your opinions and feedback based on your own experiences. I don't know the exact material, but it is similar to concrete and therfor only has valuable strength in compression. The forces on the set material once the head is removed would mostly be in compression since the grout wants to retain its shape and the block wants to return to its relaxed state since it's still within the elastic region. The grout would theoretically make the block more rigid. The exact amount would take a better setup on my end. Thought experiment: Instead of aliens, twist your favorite fleshlite. Now fill it with grout and allow it to sit for a week. Now try to twist it again. Observe what you see. Now get your other one and blow into it. Observe what you see. Now put it into a can and fill the space between your fleshlite and the can. After it sets blow into it. Less movement in torsion and less expansion i hope.   
×
×
  • Create New...