Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just a small guide on how to install the rear speakers for the 4 door R34, i managed to do it and i'm pretty clueless at this stuff so you guys should be able to do it pretty easily lol.

There are a few guides on here but I thought i'd post one anyway.

To get to the back speakers we have to take the back seats, panels on the side and the shelf off.

Step 1

- Under your seats there should be a bolt on each side next to the door, just use a spanner and take them out

- Then take the bottom part of the back seat out,

The green arrow is the area where the bolt would be and that's what it will look like after

iphone109.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Step 2

- Okay now the top half of the seat, on the corner just under the seat on each side there are two hidden bolts, again take them out.

- Now to take this seat out, you have to lift it upwards because there is a hook behind it to support the seat. Just push it upwards and it should come off.

- Now open the boot, and take the back shelf thing off in your car, which leads to the handrest hole, makes things easier.

Should look something like this

iphone110.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Step 3

- Now we are taking the side panel off, it's attach using clips, so pull a bit of it off and you'll hear a few clicks(the clips detaching)

- Now one of the clips is really tight so stick your hand in behind the plastic, firmly but not roughly, push the plastic out from the inside

Green arrow ---> Panel

Red arrow ---> Shelf

iphone111y.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Step 4

- Now we are taking the shelf of, there are these 3 black things on top of the shelf, with an up arrow on them attached to the shelf, push it up really hard and let it open,

- Once the plastics open you'll see more bolts, unbolt it and lift the shelf up up, (you'll hear more clicks which are the clips detaching again lol)

Step 5

- Now you'll see the speakers, unscrew the 4 screws on each side, unclip the wire attached to it and put your new ones in.

Those are my old ones

iphone122.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Those are my new ones

25472410150272009155326.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Wiring

Okay my brother helped me out with this bit, all he did was look at the positive and negative side of the clip, put the correct + or - from the new wire we got with the speakers and put it in, used some electric tape to hold it firmly and it was all good to go.

Put everything back in reverse now.

How much money did i spend on this?

$1.65 for electric tape, which i bought from 7/11 down the road.

What did i use? Just a spanner for the whole thing.

And yeah they work perfectly fine.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...