Maintenance Quote

[Stooge007]

hi all

took my Stag (RS Four S) in to get rego/pink slip done, but this time took it to someone who knows what they're doing

they are recommending changing/replacing the following:

water pump

water pump gasket

coolant flush

gearbox oil

transfer case oil

rear diff oil

front outer CV boot

rear main oil seal

brake and clutch fluid flush

rocker cover gasket

spark plugs

fuel filter

air filter

wiper blades

what would you expect to pay for that?

is this a pretty accurate guide for changing plugs? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/192015-diy-changing-coilpacks-on-r34-gtt/page__hl__coil

how hard is it to access/change the fuel filter? EDIT found this? http://www.anthonymcgrath.co.uk/gtroc/fuelfilter.htm

air filter and wiper blades are obviously easy

any/all help appreciated

thanks

Edited October 11, 2011 by Stooge007

[Daleo]

To be honest, the bill for all that could run to a couple of grand; depending on what kind of fluids and parts they specify (including labour at $60-$80 per hour).

Example; R&R on the rear main would be $250-$300 in labour alone. Water pump would be a $250ish job including parts.

That's a hell of a lot of work ; especially on a car that presumably PASSED the rego inspection.

Most of the tasks there could be done with a reasonable tool kit, some ramps and a weekend in the garage.

Edited October 11, 2011 by Daleo

[Bronx]

so basically he is telling you to do half a 100k km service???

most of those are pretty easy to do besides the water pump/ gasket, and rear oil main oil seal.

when your doing the spark plugs you can basically do your rocker cover gaskets,

fuel filter, just remove fuel pump fuse and let your pressure drop till your car stalls.

clutch and brake fluid can be done in one go. and when your under your car for clutch fluid you can do gearbox and rear diff as well

transfer case i have never done so might need to look for a tutorial on the forums. quite sure there was one too.

but if you are going to do your water pump, i suggest doing a timing belt and tensioner change in one go.

[pipster11]

i'd leave the rear main seal till your clutch needs doing

thats probably $300 worth of labour to get the gearbox out

most of the gaskets are actually gasket goo too

probably $200 worth of oils (if they use good stuff)

$40 of coolant

$10-20 for brake fluid

$35 for the air filter

buy this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-NISSAN-SKYLINE-RB25DET-60K-TIMING-BELT-SERVICE-KIT-R32-R33-R34-RB25DE-RB25-/200661926708?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb8620334#ht_1691wt_1112

thats what i used on my rs4s for the 100,000km service, probably cheaper than the waterpump they would charge you for and you get a new timing belt and idler bearings

[Verms]

when i got my autech I got every fluid in the car changed and it cost me around $800 i think.

[Stooge007]

thanks guys

might get another quote

[kidafa]

Firstly can I have some history on the car to determine why he recomends to change what.... How many K's are on it?

water pump <----- These things can last for well over 100,00k's

water pump gasket <------ Its more over a gasket goo than anything

coolant flush <------ How long ago was it done? Whats its colour and is it running hot?

gearbox oil <------ Once again colour and levels?

transfer case oil <------ Check colour and level then decided

rear diff oil <---- Recommending changing the rear diff oil but not the front, sounds like he really does know what hes on about

front outer CV boot <---- If its torn got onto that

rear main oil seal <------- May I ask why? is it leaking really bad or is he just jumping to conclusions that its leaking as where oil collects when these leak (at the bottom of the bellhousing) is the lowest point and many leaks will collect here making it look like a rear main seal issue...

brake and clutch fluid flush <------ Again check the colours and levels

rocker cover gasket <----- Try nipping up the screws on the outside and in the valley first?

spark plugs <------- For only $30 Why not? NGK BCPR7ES is your friend!

fuel filter <------ When was it last done

air filter <----- Hows it current condition?

wiper blades <----- Where are you located? Im in adelaide and just coming into summer I wouldnt bother till the start of next season as its not how often you use these that wears them out but the chemicals ect from cleaning your car that makes them go all brittle ect..

While your at it you might as well do power steering fluid, attessa reservior, O2 sensor maybe?

[wolverine]

i'd leave the rear main seal till your clutch needs doing

thats probably $300 worth of labour to get the gearbox out

most of the gaskets are actually gasket goo too

probably $200 worth of oils (if they use good stuff)

$40 of coolant

$10-20 for brake fluid

$35 for the air filter

buy this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-NISSAN-SKYLINE-RB25DET-60K-TIMING-BELT-SERVICE-KIT-R32-R33-R34-RB25DE-RB25-/200661926708?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb8620334#ht_1691wt_1112

thats what i used on my rs4s for the 100,000km service, probably cheaper than the waterpump they would charge you for and you get a new timing belt and idler bearings

x2

That Ebay trader is very good to deal with. Rear main seals are cheap from him too compared to local prices.

[Stooge007]

Firstly can I have some history on the car to determine why he recomends to change what.... How many K's are on it? Odo says ~ 70,xxx, but that's BS. I am the first Australian owner and it had 52,xxx on it

water pump <----- These things can last for well over 100,00k's unsure if it's ever been changed

water pump gasket <------ Its more over a gasket goo than anything if changing pump, assume change gasket/goo at same time

coolant flush <------ How long ago was it done? Whats its colour and is it running hot? has not been changed in last 2 years, not running hot at all

gearbox oil <------ Once again colour and levels? where do i check this?

transfer case oil <------ Check colour and level then decided where do i check this?

rear diff oil <---- Recommending changing the rear diff oil but not the front, sounds like he really does know what hes on about where do i check this?

front outer CV boot <---- If its torn got onto that apparently torn and spitting oil

rear main oil seal <------- May I ask why? is it leaking really bad or is he just jumping to conclusions that its leaking as where oil collects when these leak (at the bottom of the bellhousing) is the lowest point and many leaks will collect here making it look like a rear main seal issue... apparently leaking, not sure how bad

brake and clutch fluid flush <------ Again check the colours and levels haven't checked colour and levels

rocker cover gasket <----- Try nipping up the screws on the outside and in the valley first? will do this if i change spark plugs

spark plugs <------- For only $30 Why not? NGK BCPR7ES is your friend! will be doing these myself

fuel filter <------ When was it last done unsure of when last changed, but will change this myself

air filter <----- Hows it current condition? unsure of when last changed, condition fine from what i can see, but will change this myself

wiper blades <----- Where are you located? Im in adelaide and just coming into summer I wouldnt bother till the start of next season as its not how often you use these that wears them out but the chemicals ect from cleaning your car that makes them go all brittle ect.. might wait till after summer then, cheers

While your at it you might as well do power steering fluid, attessa reservior, O2 sensor maybe?

responses above

i'm not too mechanically minded when it comes to car engines (as you might tell)

car audio/electronics i'm fine with, but that doesn't help

anyone in Sydney with the knowledge on how to do this stuff want to help me out and earn some $'s???

Edited October 12, 2011 by Stooge007

[wolverine]

Unknown km's for me = 100,000km service

While in there r&r anything else while the car is off the road that might be due.

[kidafa]

Ok well not knowing the true KM's of a car does play a bit part.... Who winds back a '99 car to under 80,000k's what do they think you are stupid or something?

We must also remember that at compliance ALL fluids and filters are MEANT to be changed.

In saying the above id be changing/replacing anything that will potentially cause catastrophic damage if it fails

Therefore I'd replace the following:

• Timing belt, idler , tensioner pulleys
• Water Pump (its probably fine but while the belts of you might as well... ) yes change the goo at the same time

I'd be checking the levels and condition of the following fluids:

• Coolant (its been two years, might as well replace)
• Gear box oil, remove the filler plug on the side and check its level and colour
• Front and rear diffs remove the filler plug on the side and check its level and colour
• Transfer case, remove the filler plug on the side and check its level and colour
• Ateesa fluid check its level and colour in rear boot compartment
• Power steering check its level and colour
• Brake and clutch fluid check its level and colour

Hows the fuel economy on the car? Is it miss firing or anything at all? Id consider replacing the 02 aswell as the fuel and air filter.

How can he tell that its the rear main leaking? Have you got under the car yourself with a torch to check this? Also when you are under there have a look at that CV boot and confirm its stuffed youll know pretty quickly as they make a hell of a mess

Make sure you gap those plugs to .8mm

Where in Syndey are you located? I happen to be there for a few days as of Friday.... What tools do you have?

[Stooge007]

Where in Syndey are you located? I happen to be there for a few days as of Friday.... What tools do you have?

PM incoming

[Pft shh 89]

Make sure you gap those plugs to .8mm

This might be a noob question but for us not so mechanically experienced, ^^what is this? how is it done? and what is the purpose??

[wolverine]

Feeler gauges and a gently close the gap (assuming they are copper plugs).

The only purpose of closing the gap is if you have a misfire due to the spark being unable to jump the gap. This could be due to coils failing or running higher boost/power applications.

I suggest running the largest gap you can get away with...from factory 1.1mm

If your car is running fine, leave it alone.

[Pft shh 89]

Feeler gauges and a gently close the gap (assuming they are copper plugs).

The only purpose of closing the gap is if you have a misfire due to the spark being unable to jump the gap. This could be due to coils failing or running higher boost/power applications.

I suggest running the largest gap you can get away with...from factory 1.1mm

If your car is running fine, leave it alone.

aah ok, how might one "gently close the gap"? tap softly with a hammer? slowly tighten in a vice?

[Bronx]

tap with a spanner, back of screwdriver etc etc. just make sure its a nice clean tap, not at a horrific angle or anything like that

[Pft shh 89]

tap with a spanner, back of screwdriver etc etc. just make sure its a nice clean tap, not at a horrific angle or anything like that

aah ok thanks, not that i need to do it or anything just wondered. getting my knowledge up a bit you know. and many thanks to everyone on these forums for all the diy's etc im sure they've been a lot of help to alot of people

[Stooge007]

UPDATE

got another quote (from a pretty reputable place):

- coolant flush

- change gearbox oil

- change transfer case oil

- change front and rear diff oil

- brake and clutch fluid flush

- check CV boots

- check rear main oil seal for leaks

- check rocker cover gasket

- check water pump

- check clutch

- check turbo

all of the above for $495 (including oils/coolant/fluids)

i will do the rest of the stuff myself:

- spark plugs

- fuel filter

- air filter

- wiper blades

so looks like it will cost me far less than the original quote