Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and girls, I found a r32 gtr at a price i couldnt refuse so I regrettibly have to get rid of my r34 project.

it was to be a z-tune replica with an ls1 but I cant have 2 projects on the go.

so basiclly i have the r34 gtt shell and parts as follows:

1 spare drivers door

front hubs

2 front cross members

2 spare tail lights minus plastic garnish

front and rear suspension (std)

2 dash pads

there are no front or rear reo's or bumpers nor side skirts either.

the shell has rear drive train including the auto tailshaft, and every thing is there for the front I just need a few bolts to be able to put it back together.

It has a shopping trolley under the front to keep it rolling.

As for the shell itself, it was a repairable write off with minor damage on the front drivers headlight and a nasty

cut down the drivers side, hence the spare door(same colour) I was going to put gtr rear guards on to cover it up.

I would prefer to sell the whole lot( shell and parts) in one go for $1400 but if there is no interest in that I will happily part it out

at cost price or less. i bought all the parts and spares from fellow sau users real cheap so in return i'll sell them cheap.:cheers:

Location is adelaide and I am happy to post parts with e-go or aus post.

It was to be a time attack project so I was never worried about getting it rego'd but it can be done.

However it would still be an awsome track car as there are'nt many r34's doing time attack or even drift.

best contact is 0420 734 794 or pm me here. pics will up this weekend as i have camera issuse but i'll throw some temp ones up later tonight.

cheers, troy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379855-for-sale-r34-gt-t-shell-and-bits/
Share on other sites

bump!!

also found a rear reo bar

and 1 complete r/h rear tail light

the other tail lights are only good for the coloured lens :thumbsup:

price drop to $1200 with free delivery within adelaide.

Edited by rb20-into-mr30=
  • 2 weeks later...

now with s14/r33 wheels and i have started fixing the r/hand head light section for replacement

and I have assembled the front and rear suspension so all springs and shocks are fitted and car is now steering and fully rolling on 4 wheels

also now advertising on gumtree and ebay :cheers:

Edited by rb20-into-mr30=

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unless things that you want to do include reference to time. Simple Boolean logic is only good for digital inputs or analogues that have been thresholded into digitals. But unless you also have a timer function available (which would more ideally be located inside the program, rather than being forced to implement a timer outside the ECU and bring it in as a seperate digital for every time delay you want to implement), then you can't do some of the things that you might want to do. My PLC ladder logics are obviously littered with program blocks, because that's easier than building it all in ladder gates, but the most frequent of those program blocks is a simple timer, because you actually can't otherwise do that in ladder at all.
    • Log voltage. I'm suspecting the alternator. Or even maybe a bad earth somewhere. ie, seeing as it is rev dependent, I am thinking it is alternator dependent.
    • Yeah so N1 and any other larger than factory pump are pretty famous for pumping the sump dry...obviously we don't often get to spend 20 or 30 seconds at high rpm/full noise on the road so I'd still be suspicious that is what is happening here.
    • You are also getting pressure dips on gear shifts. They're just not dipping as far, but they're dipping quite below the amount of oil pressure you should be seeing, for how much RPM drops.   It quite little could be the oil pressure relief valve is starting to stick open a little/is slow to close.
    • Can you log battery voltage, and TPS, and put all four of those into a single image (even as split graphs)?   The oil pressure drops aren't following RPM as such. I'm intrigued if you may have a ground loop between different sensors. With the engine not running, log your sensors and for example cycle the throttle pedal. See if any sensor values flutter or move about. This won't be a perfect test either as the ECU won't be cycling all of its actuators like it would be while running. What EMTRON do you have? Do you have a link to the wiring guide for that ECU?
×
×
  • Create New...