Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Because 380 is HUGE power, not just big power ;)

Its also a massive % increase for just a tune

Lol have you been in a boss model yet? My manager has one and they absolutely hammer.. Didn't actually believe ford brought out such a powerful car from factory in AUS

380rwkw without mods? :mellow:

what do they weigh?

About 1800, maybe a bit less which is expected I guess for a big car.. got about 300kgs on my old GTR :O.. still do a tune and your in 11s.

Other vids online to back this up as well / all info on forums etc

Standard boost just drops off so much

They go alright:

This ones got a catback and a tune, nothing else

I met a bloke the other day selling a Callaway Corvette..90k if anyones interested..still left hook though

11 sec in stock trim and 200mph+ top speed

much the same as this one

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8HyT4d7Kzc

Enjoy 380rwkw on pos stock tyres/suspension/brakes

When you bringing it to a meet Leigh?

Obviously upgrade the 245s, and will be doing brembos / suspension down the track as well

Whenever the next meet is !

Saving for a few months, what are they made of gold? Get a Blitz CS and stick with the standard plenum...

Lol studying full time+part time wages=not a lot of cashola.

Yeah I've read that that upgrading the plenum on a standard turbo isn't really worth it as I won't see any real gains but by doing it now with a FMIC it means I won't have to do it down the track and it'll support future mods better (ie. upgraded turbo). What I liked about the plazmaman plenum was that it retained the standard factory runners. Essentially I'm not after a car that's a dyno king rather a quick car with some good midrange torque.

interesting leigh!

the car was running 118's @ full weight, anyone know enough about boring/pointless/homo drag racing to derive a rwkw figure from that?

FWIW i ran consistent 119's with 325rwkw @ 1350kg

Going by that post, you do not need a plenum upgrade and are only wasting your money if you get one. And it doesn't sound like you have a big disposable income so why bother?

If you're not after a dyne king, rather a fast street car, turbos like a gt-rs are where you'd be looking, and you don't need an aftermarket plenum for that.

If you ever decide to get a turbo that does warrant a plenum upgrade, thats when you buy one...

interesting leigh!

the car was running 118's @ full weight, anyone know enough about boring/pointless/homo drag racing to derive a rwkw figure from that?

FWIW i ran consistent 119's with 325rwkw @ 1350kg

What about that fluke 190mph pass Ham? No need to be modest

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...