Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitting lock bar and camber arms with no prior experience. What a head f**k and a half. It was an easy job but f**king tight as f**k bolts made it hardddd

Didn't get enough time to lower front and paint brakes though :(

So 2 strokes are better than 4 stroke?

2 stroke are more powerful because they have a power stroke every two strokes of the piston, so 250cc is roughly equivalent to a 500cc 4 stroke. Cons: fuel needs to be mixed with oil, so they burn through that; two strokes need rebuilds more often; something of a narrow powerband.

2 stroke are more powerful because they have a power stroke every two strokes of the piston, so 250cc is roughly equivalent to a 500cc 4 stroke. Cons: fuel needs to be mixed with oil, so they burn through that; two strokes need rebuilds more often; something of a narrow powerband.

Ah, bit like mower yeah?

Know much about the Ninjas?

Good/bad?

Good, very reliable. Still using the same engine (or at least an iteration of it) that they used in the GPX, which finished some ridiculous motorbike rally that apparently 90% of bikes don't finish and it was the only 250cc that finished. Talking from my memory here.

Know much about the Ninjas?

Good/bad?

The four major Jap brands (Kawa, Honda, Suzi & Yam) are all hghly reliable, it's only finding something in good condition similar to purchasing any vehicle. Koreans are hit and miss, I've known a few to need new engines early on but my Hyosung lasted 45,000km and I completely thrashed it. European... Don't even bother unless you want it only for looks and will never ride it, or you are willing to spend the value of the bike again in repairs.

So to answer your question... Ninja's are good.

Lol watching jersey shore for the first time on mate, still have no clue what it's about but jesus these girls are so fkn stupid lol

Basically a bunch of guidos/american muzzas doing shit. I kinda like it tho lol but its so silly pinch.gif

The four major Jap brands (Kawa, Honda, Suzi & Yam) are all hghly reliable, it's only finding something in good condition similar to purchasing any vehicle. Koreans are hit and miss, I've known a few to need new engines early on but my Hyosung lasted 45,000km and I completely thrashed it. European... Don't even bother unless you want it only for looks and will never ride it, or you are willing to spend the value of the bike again in repairs.

So to answer your question... Ninja's are good.

Give me a Ducati or a TLR1000 any day of the week. Mates of mine have Duc's, no reliability issues to speak of other than complaints from neighbours :D

End of the day a v-twin just sounds wicked. Also the Jap bikes all going "bottom/mid side" exhausts atm looks shit house I reckon.

And before you get ya knickers in a knot, one of em have had plenty of jap bikes (and one still has a R1). Unless you wanna go out racing and going flat out everywhere... Looks good, sounds good, is good!

But they are farken expensive, but means you can pickup a 2-3yr old one and save fortune! :teehee:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...