Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Martin that's a good point >.<

Cass your cars a 4x4 lol, lower it and watch the wheels tuck.

It's a 4x4 because it has massive front pipes...its only at that height that we managed to clear a major defect. Got done this time last year for height (70 mm clearance). Cost me 390 dollars ish to clear it. Left it to avoid further headf**ks from TMU. Will lower it again once I have the money to heat protect and tuck exhaust...but will do for now. Tucked at rears at 70mm, couldn't fit a finger between wheel and guard.

passenger door sound-deaded inside and outside, sound diffuser fitted and new splits installed woo~

Took about a month to do on/off weekends due to weather and other commitments

Drove around with no door skin for a month

Dont think i'll be able to do that with the drivers now ~_~

Especially with the window controls disconnected during this weather lawl

I forsee my sound system to be done by December at this rate haha

passenger door sound-deaded inside and outside, sound diffuser fitted and new splits installed woo~

Took about a month to do on/off weekends due to weather and other commitments

Drove around with no door skin for a month

Dont think i'll be able to do that with the drivers now ~_~

Especially with the window controls disconnected during this weather lawl

I forsee my sound system to be done by December at this rate haha

fix my rear speakers man! damn alternator whine!

fk yeah ric!.... 57d's are baws!

i wish i still had my orange ones :'(

although i do have a set of the blue/grey ones in 9+22 to use as track rims

Cheers man, I'm hangin for them to arrive, 6-8 weeks apparently :(

Lol'd at this. Can't really bag out on any engines until you've driven a well modded one.

i'd be more than happy to drive a 20det 32....

i just wouldn't bother looking for more than like 230rwkw

Yeah rb20det's are fine

my old 32 was up to 230rwkw on a garrett hiflow BB turbo and spool was good to, not as laggy as you would think

Cheers man, I'm hangin for them to arrive, 6-8 weeks apparently :(

nice man, what sizes?

Cant wait to see them on

It's a 4x4 because it has massive front pipes...its only at that height that we managed to clear a major defect. Got done this time last year for height (70 mm clearance). Cost me 390 dollars ish to clear it. Left it to avoid further headf**ks from TMU. Will lower it again once I have the money to heat protect and tuck exhaust...but will do for now. Tucked at rears at 70mm, couldn't fit a finger between wheel and guard.

what part of your car was ever 70mm? the exhaust?

or are you talking the gap between fender and tyre? ;)

moh, throw inn another rb20... chuck on a 2535 or thereabouts and have ~230rwkw with a nearly 5000 rev powerband.

no engineering, no hastles, no modifications, hella fun and will cost you like $20 for the motor

moh, throw inn another rb20... chuck on a 2535 or thereabouts and have ~230rwkw with a nearly 5000 rev powerband.

no engineering, no hastles, no modifications, hella fun and will cost you like $20 for the motor

this man knows what he is talking about.

rb20 - $500

hks2530 or 2535 - $700

Sard Injectors - $600

z32 afm - $150?

nistune - $300?

Tune - $200?

exhaust - $800~

boost controller - $50

$3k incl new engine for 225kw

yup, (although your prices with the "?" need to be doubled) and 230 is actually a pretty fkn quick car.

it's also a perfect ammount of power to be able to carelessly slide without having the troubles of an underpowered car, or trying to wrangle a wild bull

yup, (although your prices with the "?" need to be doubled) and 230 is actually a pretty fkn quick car.

it's also a perfect ammount of power to be able to carelessly slide without having the troubles of an underpowered car, or trying to wrangle a wild bull

havent kept up with the going rates for car parts these days haha

I remember i picked up gtr injectors + z32 afm for $300 total

Just need to find someone desp for a sale.

Although wouldnt recommend gtr injectors as they leaked 1yr afterwards. Less headaches buying new and never worrying.

on another note; petrol claim for using car for business use is awesome!

75cents per km. Rack up 400km (city and back for a week) = $300 = Final inspection detail due to the cardboard box which hit my car when driving for business >_<

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...