Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ah about heat treating.

aluminium goes though a phase change only at about 500+degrees, so you'll be alright...

by phase change i mean change in crystal structure. i could be wrong though, need to flip through some notes.

ah about heat treating.

aluminium goes though a phase change only at about 500+degrees, so you'll be alright...

by phase change i mean change in crystal structure. i could be wrong though, need to flip through some notes.

forget what i just said. the aging is done at between 100-200 degrees, so yup. powder coating is bad yo.. unless, it only heats the surface and the wheel does not really reach 200degrees on the inside, you only bake the surface anyway, right?

yeah but after you come to a stop, so I do a cool down lap but still you can light a match off the rotor after you aprk it, 20-30 min later has to have warmed up a rim quite a bit???

I'm prob wrong, should bring a thermal probe to one and have a play

forget what i just said. the aging is done at between 100-200 degrees, so yup. powder coating is bad yo.. unless, it only heats the surface and the wheel does not really reach 200degrees on the inside, you only bake the surface anyway, right?

I wouldn't be game to risk it :P

Where to buy spacers from guys?

Instead of being:

20x10 +42

20x8.5 +35

I got:

20x10 +38 (don't really care about that - more baws)

20x8.5 +42 (7mm more in on the front than I was meant to be getting..)

So now thinking a 5mm 8-10mm spacer? where to buy? ebay have a fair few is matching the center bore of the hub important?

lol not sure if trolling jonoe? :P

Alex, cant they're already here.. got them 2nd hand and cbf chasing shit up - just the fron'ts I have a problem with they wont be flush at all so thinking of spacer.. if i really like rims maybe buy 2x propper sized ones and rip skids on the others or something lol..

If specs aren't as advertised send em back ?

eh got them at a decent price + cbf sending shiz back I think it was a honest mistake by him so might try some small spacers to push it out

ford have factory spacers anyway as dust guards on the rear lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
    • I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.   what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff   on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?
×
×
  • Create New...