Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Never lubed my chain...how often should it be done?

500km is a good interval I think.

I wash my bike frequently so I clean and lube it after every couple of washes.

Some people put a little lube on before each ride. Besides the chain fling, I can't see the harm in doing this.

Fair call, they were always about the look rather than the drive lol. Hopefully new one is a better drive.

Yeh don't get me wrong they looked great but simple things like the seatbelt holder would constantly fall through the seats. Door jams wouldnt line up. Knocking and creaking sounds all over the joint uneven stitching in the interior I could keep going...

Even flat spots in acceleration. Man dissapointed in that car to the max.

The new one should be an improvement as anything would be an improvement

Too scared to wash my bike

Last time I washed it didn't start for days

f**k that shit lol

Just clean the fairings, that's all you really need to make it look clean.

Or get a newer model :P I pretty well flood my bike with water and leave it for a couple of hours to dry; starts first time everytime!

It's very highly rated from watching reviews on YouTube from USA. Never know though until ya get in one for yourself though

I guarantee the car will be completely different from USA to aus.. Firstly the tune will be different for the different emissions. Secondly a completely different interior. I wouldnt base assumptions on what's overseas.

/passionatehate4chrysler

Edited by Sunkist

500km is a good interval I think.

I wash my bike frequently so I clean and lube it after every couple of washes.

Some people put a little lube on before each ride. Besides the chain fling, I can't see the harm in doing this.

Better get on it then, think I've done around 2000kms since I bought it. I could walk 10 meters and go check but I won't.

I've only washed it 3 times since I bought it too.. but I don't ride in the rain so it stays pretty clean anyway.

How do you do the chain? just spray it on wherever the chain is exposed and go for a ride or?

Better get on it then, think I've done around 2000kms since I bought it. I could walk 10 meters and go check but I won't.

I've only washed it 3 times since I bought it too.. but I don't ride in the rain so it stays pretty clean anyway.

How do you do the chain? just spray it on wherever the chain is exposed and go for a ride or?

Best way is to have the bike on a stand, and spin the rear tire while constantly spraying on a sprocket (front or rear)

The other 'lazy' way which is what I usually do is just spray it where you can, move it forward a bit - spray a bit more and then go for a ride.

Less gangster more conservative which I think is better the interior is impressive from what I've seen, Unfortunatly Leigh ford interior is like one specification for 60k+ doesn't cut it imo

Chrysler/jeep under fiat are killing it grand Cherokee got car of the year i think?

While I agree it's not the best, when you get it optioned up (leather, colour screen, premo sound etc.) it improves the quality quite a bit.

Can't argue with ~400rwkw with a tune though :P

http://wardsauto.com...ngines-ceremony

SRT looks pretty gangster though :

17l / 100 k's in city apparently

Better get on it then, think I've done around 2000kms since I bought it. I could walk 10 meters and go check but I won't.

I've only washed it 3 times since I bought it too.. but I don't ride in the rain so it stays pretty clean anyway.

How do you do the chain? just spray it on wherever the chain is exposed and go for a ride or?

Definitely get on it. It's mostly about lengthening the life of your chain and sprockets (and not having it overheat and snap on you), but it does make the bike ride quieter and smoother to ride too.

I usually spray it on the exposed part of the chain, wheel the bike forward a bit, spray again and repeat. There are little O-rings on each link that just going for a ride won't work the lube into, so it's good to spray the whole thing. Afterwards, either leave for a while to soak in / drip off, or you can wipe excess lube off with scot towels to reduce chain fling.

If your chain is particularly dirty looking you can degrease / kerosene it first, just be careful not to get this shit on your tyres and to wash it off with water, before putting the lube on.

You may notice it easier to wheel the bike after lubing; a good sign it was in need of one.

It's all same spec brah it's the 3.6ltr pentaster which is in the jeeps with a zf 8 speed interior specs are unchanged just model names are slightly different. Aus spec is slightly more inclusions I think as standard

It's same as e class merc chassis Or very similar I read same as jeep is ml chassis

And agree Leigh motor in ford is un matched

/chryslerfanboy

Edited by alr33x

Depends what you want really, that extra speed / supercharger sound or better interior - both cars look great the SRT obviously a bit rarer but that's not always a good thing either.

Just test drive them all

It's all same spec brah it's the 3.6ltr pentaster which is in the jeeps with a zf 8 speed interior specs are unchanged just model names are slightly different. Aus spec is slightly more inclusions I think as standard

It's same as e class merc chassis Or very similar I read same as jeep is ml chassis

And agree Leigh motor in ford is un matched

/chryslerfanboy

The old ones are the same as the e class but since Daimler ditched em I don't think they'll be using the same chassis. Not sure though..

I'll be interested in a test drive though to see the difference. I really fkn hated the old 300c

Just clean the fairings, that's all you really need to make it look clean.

Or get a newer model :P I pretty well flood my bike with water and leave it for a couple of hours to dry; starts first time everytime!

i usually just wipe it down without using water don't think i can make it any cleaner than it is now anyway

lol yeah it's old i've put it up for sale most likely going cbr600rr once/if it's sold

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...