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Yeah i was considering just using an overseas company, it worked best when the motor was originally built so not a bad idea. And on that one, can i not just work out the current gap and add / subtract to give me the shim required? Probably explained that wrong but it makes sense in my head lol! -
Follow up to my last update…. I was wrong about the clutch setup. Mazworx was right, dimensionally everything is the same. I probably did not have the bell housing all the way tight, or because the slave was not in the milled pocket all the way it was not functioning right. I went ahead and refitted the trans and everything is good 👍. That being said the clutch slave pocket not being milled out caused a headache for me. I need to cut away material from it to fit the slave in correctly, and even when I thought it was flush it was not and I cracked the iron bolt holes. I have a new nismo one sitting ready to go in so nbd, but it’s a miss I’m surprised they didn’t check. either way the clutch setup is good now, and functions well. I was able to drive the car, first off the shifter feels great, it’s super tight and precise compared to the 5 speed. I went with the serial nine cd999 shifter since it had the shallowest mounting; I was considering the gktech, but it looked a touch longer. (I don’t have any photos atm of the hole I had to cut I’ll add those tonight.) the only other driveline issue I had was with the driveshaft being so big it was clicking on the parking brake cable tabs, so those will need to be either bent or replaced to make work. otherwise my swap is done. In the end for my swap I used… - brand new cd009 (used the clutch fork, pivot ball, and TOB) - Mazworx VQRB bell housing kit - kept my old twin disk clutch - Driftmotion 1350 driveshaft (if your not over 600whp you can probably run a 1310 yoke setup) - Serial nine cd999 shifter - home made transmission mount. it’s fairly straightforward to do this swap, if I was doing this, I would do this route again. The bell housing allows for lots of clearance to get the transmission in; I don’t need to take it to a machine shop. Hope this helps others in the future, and I hope the cd can really handle the 1k hp like people say it can. -
No, the solenoid is not the actuator. The actuator is on the cam gear, to make it actually move when given oil pressure by the solenoid. -
Per Duncan's post, Street version has no VCT, doesn't do AC, DOESN'T HAVE KNOCK SENSORS. OK, so you can use the higher end ECUs to claw those things back. But.... if I'm going aftermarket ECU, I'm not using a cable throttle. And...where is that? Um...
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Cheers for the reply mate I have no issue running standard bearings if everything is in spec, I just wasn't sure in regards to the different journal specs, having never ordered oem bearings, I didn't realise they can be ordered individually. In regards to pistons, basing off the rb30dohc.pdf a lot of people refer to, I thought I'd be okay with rb30e pistons? I understand they'd be a reasonably low compression ratio but what I read says it's not an issue? If that's not correct though then yeah, I may as well just send everything for a holiday at the machine shop I guess. The head has already had a bit of machining work done to it, I'm yet to find out the extent but I'm buying it off a pretty reputable performance shop in town so it should be pretty good.
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