Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Convertible? Well there goes all the streetcred this car ever had.

I park next to a white FT86 (and a burgandy R33... anyone on here?) every day at Gardiner station. The more I look at it, the more I keep thinking it should've been the new Hyundai Tiburon.

Someone's game parking a 33 at a station!

IMG_20130304_144541.jpgIMG_20130304_144825.jpg

And where was I parked in the space? Heaps of room!

IMG_20130304_144708.jpg

And then where does she park? 2 spaces away :P

"In my country, we don't normally drive cars forward into spaces"

SO WHY DID YOU TRY IF YOU KNEW YOU'D FAIL!!!!



Hertz Hire Car... Zero Excess due to her excess reduction premium

Wouldn't mind a ford gs :P

/brbgettingtipsfromrussman

I wouldn't want to take that 32 off your hands :P

Took russman in my car once, he wants one now instead of his xr6t :D

Edited by UNR33L

i parked my car at the station every f**king day for a few months.... no one steals it...

it was insured for 20k you bastards

This. Do you know how hard it is to have my car stolen? I leave my car in the open because it's insured for 11, which is more than most 33s are going to get selling...no dice. It's like they know which cars are uninsured or low valued :/

f**k that, I'm getting it fixed properly... there's a weird dent throwing off the reflection in the rear quarter that I'd be unable to fix myself...

Plus it's down to the metal / plastic in a few spots, so needs paint...

I am officially 3WD. Lol

Lost the ayc pump at GOR..

$3k new, $1500 second hand, $2500 7RS mechanical diff..

Which one

ouch!

well it depends on finances and how far you wanna take the car

if tou wanna launch it and have 300+ go the RS if you are just gonna keep it stockish go the 2nd hand

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...