Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ha, I had a mate at uni who took his set of $800 rims from his corolla to get some SLIGHT rash repaired... the bloke was a panel beater doing some rim repair work on the side...

Dropped them off and was told he'd be called the next day with a quote, gets a call a few days later saying "They're all done, that'll be $650... Come pick them up when you're ready"

And the prick was threatening to not give the rims back until it was paid in full.

Small claims court with evidence of an email from the bloke saying that he'd call with a quote first... = gets the rims back for "cost price" of $200 and the panel beater gets told to stop being a cock :P

Job was crappy anyway... paint was chipping and fading after a few months.

SO GO TO A QUALITY JOINT!!!

Ha, I had a mate at uni who took his set of $800 rims from his corolla to get some SLIGHT rash repaired... the bloke was a panel beater doing some rim repair work on the side...

Dropped them off and was told he'd be called the next day with a quote, gets a call a few days later saying "They're all done, that'll be $650... Come pick them up when you're ready"

And the prick was threatening to not give the rims back until it was paid in full.

Small claims court with evidence of an email from the bloke saying that he'd call with a quote first... = gets the rims back for "cost price" of $200 and the panel beater gets told to stop being a cock :P

Job was crappy anyway... paint was chipping and fading after a few months.

SO GO TO A QUALITY JOINT!!!

lol.

Pretty similar thing happened to a friend of mine.

Repaired 1 rim at a cost of about 900 dollars, but a new rim would have been 1100. He didn't take it to small claims though.

Agree with you re going to a reputable company. I've seen some pretty crappy jobs.

guy we used at honda was http://www.wheelfixit.com.au/ - i got a quote to do a full restoration on wheels i have personally, was 400$ per wheel, would take 2 weeks, or $150 per wheel for gutter rash which i think he could do within the day.

guy we used at honda was http://www.wheelfixit.com.au/ - i got a quote to do a full restoration on wheels i have personally, was 400$ per wheel, would take 2 weeks, or $150 per wheel for gutter rash which i think he could do within the day.

Can these guys un-buckle rims? My SS-V has a slight buckle in one of the rims but it's actually on the outter lip (not the inside of the wheel that most people have).

Took it to the mob at Moorabin but the bloke said it can't be done :unsure:

The freshly painted rotor you dumbass

What's wrong with that? The brake pad will just take it off anyway...

I always do it, leaves a clean line rather than an imperfect masked circle..

I still don't see how that's funny. It's actually smart - unless he is expecting the paint to stay there..

A lot of rotors actually come out completely painted like that.

guy we used at honda was http://www.wheelfixit.com.au/ - i got a quote to do a full restoration on wheels i have personally, was 400$ per wheel, would take 2 weeks, or $150 per wheel for gutter rash which i think he could do within the day.

Not bad at all.

A lot of rotors actually come out completely painted like that.

My DBA4000's came soaked in that rust protection oil from the factory and had black painted centers which extended onto the rotors a bit...

Not once I got a bit of brake cleaner onto them to get rid of the oil :) Goodbye paint.

Yes, the brakes will get rid of the paint themselves, but I still would have covered the majority of it with newspaper and tape to stop the black from getting into the cooling vents, slots and dimples! That wouldn't be cleared by the pads right away...

Can these guys un-buckle rims? My SS-V has a slight buckle in one of the rims but it's actually on the outter lip (not the inside of the wheel that most people have).

Took it to the mob at Moorabin but the bloke said it can't be done :unsure:

I'm not sure if they can do that, email and ask :P

Not sure if prices have changed - been about 10 months since I got that last quote

My DBA4000's came soaked in that rust protection oil from the factory and had black painted centers which extended onto the rotors a bit...

Not once I got a bit of brake cleaner onto them to get rid of the oil :) Goodbye paint.

Yes, the brakes will get rid of the paint themselves, but I still would have covered the majority of it with newspaper and tape to stop the black from getting into the cooling vents, slots and dimples! That wouldn't be cleared by the pads right away...

Ever ran your finger nails through the slots to see how much crap comes out? Don't think a little paint is going to be a worry, and in any case the temperatures that the friction part of your rotors see is MUCH more than enough to take the paint off..

It will come off in the first 5 minutes of driving..

Oil is a different story, but paint? f**k masking it..

Yeah I pretty much covered my rotors, came off after bed in and looks neat vs masked ones that always seem to mask around the line in the center not the actual edge of the pad contact area and still end up with a rusted section :/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
    • Does it make a difference in your turbo having a shorter life if you have a cat converter as it causes that back pressure versus less/no back pressure with a decat? (Not sure if this is accurate) Also slightly different question if you went from a oem cat to a decat or vice versa will it require a tune? I heard if you change the dump pipe onwards it requires a tune?
    • No. Have only gotten as far as contemplating the task of having to put in the required fairly heavy wiring and fusing to run it (along with the big alternator), and preferring not to. But otherwise, it would be nice to have a little extra freedom as to exactly where the compressor is located and free up some space around the exhaust side of the engine.
    • Following from this in a related by not closely-related sense... Because I was buying a bunch of other GKTech stuff, I got some rear subframe collars. The history that leads up to this is: 25+ years ago the car arrived into the country with stock subframe bushes. At some point shortly thereafter I added Whiteline pineapple rings, set up neutral, and it improved the rear end behaviour. Well, it is my vague memory that I was happier with it with them in. Less axle tramp on launches, generally better, etc etc. ~2012 it got a new non-HICAS subframe with new stock bushes. No pineapple rings. I reckon that ever since then I've been dissatisfied with the axle tramp. Recently I've been f**king around a lot with all aspects of the suspension. One contemplation has been to relocate the rear lower control arm front mount points (and do the other things needed to make that work) to improve longitudinal rear grip by getting rid of some of the stupid anti-squat that Nissan ladled into the R32. But.... before doing that I thought I'd put some collars in. And.... The collars are good. The rear sounds a little bit different, but there has been no significant increase in NVH coming up into the body. In terms of rear behaviour - expansion joints on long sweeping elevated freeway ramps that would sometimes cause the rear to jiggle around a bit, no longer seem to do so. It appears that jamming chunks of metal into the gaps in the rubber so they can't move much is a really good thing. And the launch behaviour and general forward traction situation seems to be greatly improved too. It's impossible to be really sure, because the tyres are completely shagged - they are freakishly willing to let go right now. But as an A-B test with the same tyres it certainly seems to grip up a lot better. Highly recommended to anyone who still has stock bushes.
×
×
  • Create New...