Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my boost gauge doesn't show any boost spike, goes to 10psi but settles down to 9psi.
During the misfiring revving pass 4k rpm, it makes a constant popping from my rear muffler from what I can tell.

I don't even know, I've been sitting here looking for excuses not to let it go...

evos are crappy little girls cars....is that reason enough...need another, your gfs car is cooler (almost) :P

Ed* oh wait you said excuses NOT to let it go...sorry I got nuthink..

1.1 is a bit big for turbo applications I thought. 0.8 is more common, stronger arc.

1.1 is standard for the rb25 but .8 is the norm for anything modded...

I just go to bursons and ask for rb20 plugs usually..they are the bpr6 blahdy blah whatever they are the ones you want :yes:

Still got it, need a normal one for roardworthy

Good for pho Sunday morning or lunch

Could even do Yum Cha

I bon bo hue

I'll let Alvin pick

my fav bun bo hue is in st albans, i dont think you guys want to drive that far right?

though yum cha @ gold leaf springy/burwood sounds good oto.

did you seriously just read all that crap we wrote to Pat about plug gaps THEN put in 1.1's already put them in? lol

take out plugs and gap to 0.8

missfire will mysteriously vanish

did you seriously just read all that crap we wrote to Pat about plug gaps THEN put in 1.1's already put them in? lol

take out plugs and gap to 0.8

missfire will mysteriously vanish

Lol as far as I'm aware, plugs wear by creating a larger gap. As the 1.1's wear they grow to 1.2+

This is when you start having misfires

It you start at 0,8 they will wear down to 0.9, 1.0

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

Lol as far as I'm aware, plugs wear by creating a larger gap. As the 1.1's wear they grow to 1.2+

This is when you start having misfires

It you start at 0,8 they will wear down to 0.9, 1.0

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

I'm only running fmic and exhaust, boost sitting on 9psi after those mods.

Thought I'll be alright with 1.1mm since not running much power, shall re-gap to 0.8mm and perhaps coilpacks.

Misfiring better go away before deca!

 

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

 

Misfiring isn't only from increased pressure in the cylinder, it is caused by excessive amounts of fuel also. If they are running good AFR's in the top end and cylinder pressure is under control they should be able to run 1.1mm just fine, if not the coil packs may be flogged.

You are right, plugs do wear slowly. If they are wearing fast you may be overheating them, perhaps try a BPR7.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...