Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is checking fuel pressure the best way to test if a walborough pump is working properly? or just safer to replace the whole thing?

Also chatting to previous owner last night (who is cautious, but also talks some absolute shit) and raised concerns about E85 on old fuel lines and seal (I have seen a document warning cars pre-2004 to steer clear of any ethanol blend because it eat through certian rubbers over time). He also mentioned E85 water/fuel separation if left stagnant in the tank for long periods of time... comments?

Please E85 propaganda experts, you're my only hope.

Fuel pressure combined with flow rate...

You can have a pump which can build up to 45psi over 2 seconds, and then a bung pump which can build up to 45psi over 10 seconds due to low flow rate... Only one of these is going to be able to keep up under high boost situations, do SR20's have a rising rate FPR?

We even for last night lol. But know you owe me twenty for actuator. But I owe you for muffler.

Where does it end!

Huh?

Why do I owe you for the actuator again?

I work on car for free then? Oh okay.

Hey everybody free repairs farken.

Im joking. I got one jd

This is not enough to cover an angry ass pregnant wife that thinks I'm having an a fair with scotty.

I work on car for free then? Oh okay.

Hey everybody free repairs farken.

Im joking. I got one jd

This is not enough to cover an angry ass pregnant wife that thinks I'm having an a fair with scotty.

LOL @ an affair.

In that case... A slab of ze german beer.

Most of those documents regarding ethanol and old fuel lines are propaganda written by companies with a vested interested in keeping motorists using normal petrols or distributors being overly safe for liability reasons...

And we may spout pro-E85 propaganda, and then it becomes he says she says...

But the difference is, that the pro-E85 people actually have thousands of running vehicles from the early 90s to prove it's not an issue. Now show me all those explosions and fires and clapped out fuel systems from using E85 on pre-2004 vehicles :rofl:

E85 for 6 months and counting!

St Johns First Aid training course tomorrow

Sitting in a classroom with a bunch of other idiots all day... meh, still better than work.

Just remembered I need to memorise a 47 page pdf of pre-reading info before I get there, blergh.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
    • I'm looking for a direct bolt on turbo upgrade for my 93 R33 GTST.  Anyone have experience with this Greddy T620Z turbo upgrade? I'd like to be able to run about 300hp to the rear wheels without putting too much strain on the turbo. I do daily drive the car.  Pretty stock car with basic bolt ons (exhaust outlet, down pipe, high flow cat and catback exhaust along with intake and FMIC).  I'l probably have a Haltech plug n play on the car before installing the turbo. https://www.greddy.com/products/turbo-upgrade-ecr33-er34-t620z-rb25-11520057   Also, any thought on this much boost on a 30 year old motor with 250,000KMs?  Engine feels/sounds strong for what it's worth.   Thanks you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...