Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my clutch is Helix Dual Plate Organic clutch so i think the clutch itself is ok and if you smash the gearchanges its fine

it only seems to happen when i granny shift (not double clutchin' like YA SUPPOSED TO)

You would think that

I would... and i'm right

yeah thanks, it kinda makes sense - ive got stock seats and std seat positon

i dont feel that the seating position is too high (at least, it seems OK)

but i swear, its as if i dont take my foot of the accel pedal enough (or properly) so its ever so slighty during gearchange, which makes it almost free-rev after clutch in/out

ill do a drive on saturday and log it and see what the logs show, it should show TPS not dropping to 0.30v if my thinking is correct on gearchange

very odd

is there a company who makes the brackets or did you do it yourself?

ay-ay-ron and I both bought them from the same place... some company in the USA... cant remember the name, I found it on the evolutionoz forums

I find one of the most annoying things is the car revs out slowly and drops revs equally slowly... it feels like the flywheel weighs 200kg

I didn't install the clutch, so i'm guessing tis' the stock flywheel

dont plan on building anything.....

just asking if hamish had heard of wierd clutch issues like i described

turns out yeah there might be some background to it, so maybe seat position is part of it

Seating position I lowered with brackets that bolt onto the stock rails. Now i see why you were saying you couldn't see the speedo, it's cos you have the stock seating position.

Stock seat height in evo's is TERRIBLE... It might as well be mounted on the roof for how high you are. Brackets will drop you close to 2"

Clutch wise, who knows... I have an HKS single plate so it's either on or off lol

I never had an issue with seat height...... dat short lyfe

Are evos designed for smaller statured folk like myself?

pretty much, well the jdm ones are anyway

adm have different seat bolsters to fit the bigger build

which one? he apparently made 3

his was the silver, there was a pink one roaming around echuca I think and a 3rd up north blue off the top of my head

From what I saw the pink vl from Echuca was only rwd rb30 but with a 26 head and twins on it, poss a different car, but that was about 10 years ago.

I remember hearing about the 4wd vl back when I was in school ( and that's a f**ken long time ago).

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...