Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they are not a good pad for street.... also they chew rotors too much for street

better to go something like EBC red if want street pads

Yup qfm spokesperson validated why my rotors disappeared in 15,000km of street driving with a1rm.

They chew a lot when cold.

He said the qfm hpx are the best street pad from their range.

Been using them ever since and no issues.

I killed a set of A1RM's at calder in one day...never again.

(and remember I'm traveling slower than most here and with a lighter car.)

were great at deca tho.

I'm trying a few new ones now the ones I were using no longer in AU.

so I want to drain the fuel on the 200 as it will have been sitting for 6+ months b4 next track day.

I'm thinking easiest way is to pull the outlet hose off the fuel filter, put some fuel line on that into a jerry can and just turn on the ignition.

need to change fuel filter as well so seems like a good time for it.

any-one have a better way.

Really good article... Note for once it concentrated on actual issues and solutions instead of "Speed kills", "More Cameras are needed to save lives!", "HOON!"

I think I've got a night there too, will post results. All I've heard is it's expensive but very clean

if going to salzberg

and you drink beer

hit this place up

http://www.beerdrinkersguide.com/BDGWebsite/Gardens/AugustinerSalzburg.htm

full of locals , and they have a little "street" of food places where you can buy want what your want from each, everything from salad to most of an animal

plus cheap

the cheese Kransky's we had were spectacular

so I want to drain the fuel on the 200 as it will have been sitting for 6+ months b4 next track day.

I'm thinking easiest way is to pull the outlet hose off the fuel filter, put some fuel line on that into a jerry can and just turn on the ignition.

need to change fuel filter as well so seems like a good time for it.

any-one have a better way.

I just use the return line off the rail and idle till done.

done it heaps of times

The CP5070D54 sized pads fit. Most manufactures make these.

You can get them in DS2500/3000, HC800/Club Racer, Blue (DP5006)/Orange (DP9006) Stuff.

I really liked the project-mu, but it was costing too much. So used the Blue, then went to the Orange when I stopped driving it on the road.

DP5006NDX.jpg

Yep, I was told the "pads for k-sport/d2" should fit but you may need to modify/grind the pad a bit to fit, which meant it didn't fit. Either that or buy the actual pads from the JJ site.

So will these fit without modifications?

Also Simon, the green pads that come with them are baaaaad. I mean they're good for street, and by 'good for street' I actually mean I had a fair amount of brake fade in the hills with a 356mm set vs the standard brakes which had none.

hence the research into pads

:/ We'll see how it goes I guess. due to the fact I won't be able to just pop down to repco/sca to pick up pads anymore, I'll always have a spare set on hand... so will have time to experiment and see what fits and what doesn't...

Won't be tracking it for a bit, getting these brakes killed my car budget for a while... But when I do I'll be running great pads on the track, and swapping them out for street pads when I get home and take off my track tyres.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...