Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

33Rs are easily the best value. Only a few more grand than the previous model and half the price of shitty examples of the next model. Looked at 32s and 34s, thinking no other cars really excite me these days or offer the same kind of value; nearly bought that silver v spec 32 in glaze's thread. Never used to find 33Rs attractive, but they've grown on me over last few months of scoping for sale section. 33 interior > 32

do an RB25 conversion

from a stagea

it will just bolt right in, cost half as much as a 26 and give the same result (basically)

and you can tell all the fanbois that you spent extra cash as you prefer 25's

Just pretend it was all custom... shit is totally worth it for the lulz

  • Like 3

do an RB25 conversion

from a stagea

it will just bolt right in, cost half as much as a 26 and give the same result (basically)

and you can tell all the fanbois that you spent extra cash as you prefer 25's

Just pretend it was all custom... shit is totally worth it for the lulz

Chuck 26 cam covers while you're at it and run single to fool peoples.

do an RB25 conversion

from a stagea

it will just bolt right in, cost half as much as a 26 and give the same result (basically)

and you can tell all the fanbois that you spent extra cash as you prefer 25's

Just pretend it was all custom... shit is totally worth it for the lulz

Lol

In saying that i think receipts for my engine rebuild cost about $5.5K. And thats supporting about 700-800hp at the engine

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
×
×
  • Create New...