Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can be a bit more complex if you've got bundled services... eg your phone and mobile and foxtel etc with them as well but you just want a different ISP.

I've learnt never ever let an automated system, especially Telstra's Siebel, try to work out how to unbundle your products and discounts in the most cost effective manner... And good luck getting them to refund the difference of what it COULD have been bundled as if it was done efficiently.

That's the plane I took to Canberra last visit, fkin awful turbulence on it in non turbulent conditions. I researched the plane model before I boarded and, as it turns out, one of them has crashed every 6 months for the last decade...and it had been about 7 months since the last crash, so I was a tad nervous. But here we are again.

Shit that's pretty decent!

Does fall over up top a tiny bit tho as suspected... could do with some cams as there is AMPLE response to lose

Torque is very impressive, for the money he spent on the engine though to only achieve 330kw I'd be pretty disappointed :P I'm almost doing that on -7s and E85 with stock injectors on 15psi...

pretty sure i saw that earlier today advertised for under 60.... value for R34GTR? maybe. value for overall car? fark no. worthy investment? maybe. sell off 2.8, whack a working stock in there, get full detail and probably walk away with a bit of money in pocket.

Torque is very impressive, for the money he spent on the engine though to only achieve 330kw I'd be pretty disappointed :P I'm almost doing that on -7s and E85 with stock injectors on 15psi...

Agreed.

pretty sure i saw that earlier today advertised for under 60.... value for R34GTR? maybe. value for overall car? fark no. worthy investment? maybe. sell off 2.8, whack a working stock in there, get full detail and probably walk away with a bit of money in pocket.

Efforts

Shit that's pretty decent!

Does fall over up top a tiny bit tho as suspected... could do with some cams as there is AMPLE response to lose

Yeah but when it's already making that kind of power in the midrange, just means you can change gears early as fk lol

So what's it worth? Just curious always loved 34s but haven't paid any attention to em for agessss

Prolly not far off the mark pending condition. I almost shelled out for one that was full of HKS goodies and a z tune body kit, that was about 55k and went for just shy of it.

Average 34Rs go for 35-40 the good ones seem to sell around 50-60 depending what gear they have.

If you got that one for 50-55 it would be a good buy assuming everything is mechanically and structurally sound. Still think 34s are overpriced as shit though, that or 33s are underpriced, but likely the former.

I'm a fanboy of these:

http://carsales.mobi/cars/details/1964-Sunbeam-Alpine-GT-Series-IV/SSE-AD-3191987

But getting rarer and rarer to find. Would probably do a half assed restoration. Bolt on flares, big wheels, efi V8. All the oldies would be disgusted

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...