Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Then I realised I can do these things :P

crown wheel bolts used by eleventy models so that's no good. HOWEVER half shafts are only shared with R34 RB25DET MT so there's your best bet for a bolt in diff centre.

seems like a lot of moolah for just a centre... when i would consider even a viscous diff to be an upgrade.

maybe when i need to get rid of a lot money quickly... and then ill also grab these to fill the wheels

http://www.tunerwarehouse.com.au/index.php/products/product/view/125/1405

odie's D2's looked good today. i'd want low dust brake pads though, EBC seem to do some for D2's but the EBC daily driver pads ive got now make a bit of dust

Lol, grab a 34 Viscous, shove a 38424-40F67 shim in there, call it good :P. R34 also came in torsen LSD too. I think Alvin has one kicking about?

whats the washer do? after seeing Charles' torsen diff in action i dont really want one :P

sub 1:30 is solid time, especially for sub 200kw cars (except for 86's on semi slicks)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...