Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But... I also have none of dem e85 problems...

... going by Birds' comment, he's saving not a great deal by being on 98, for less performance.

It used to be CHEAPER than running 98, it's now marginally more expensive.

Is more inconvienient though.

Just sayin, if you have the means to alter and do your cold start yourself, E85 is a non issue to get going in the morning.

Car started on second crank this morning, leading me to believe that unless the 98 mix isn't pure enough (doubt it, given 59L/63L), I may have an injector issue be it a leak or blockage. If I recall correctly my car always did this since I put the injectors in...and E85 tune obviously exacerbates the issue into a 5-6 crank start up on cold mornings.

In the scheme of things for you it's probably not a big deal, especially as you don't daily it, but for everyone else who don't have tow trucks camping outside our house like velociraptors, we expect to get going quickly each morning

And not to wear out our starter motors

A few minutes, yeah, that's annoying, but 6 cranks...

We are speaking 6 cranks right? Not 6 full on attempts to start it and the car failing to start/stalling before being able to successfully leave the driveway, yeah?

6 cranks (which is literally 2 seconds) is quite different to 5 full minutes of general swearing about how shit E85 is in winter.

A few minutes, yeah, that's annoying, but 6 cranks...

We are speaking 6 cranks right? Not 6 full on attempts to start it and the car failing to start/stalling before being able to successfully leave the driveway, yeah?

6 cranks (which is literally 2 seconds) is quite different to 5 full minutes of general swearing about how shit E85 is in winter.

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

Your tune be shitty mate. :P

Thing is my bros and Jasons did the same thing cold starting tuned by a probably the most popular tuner..

I think it's normal, how's yours Simon?

Fox RNB friday again woot

Edited by UNR33L

The tuner is likely guessing the cold start mixtures unless it's a 2 degree morning when he tunes it from cold. As Greg said, the best cold start mapping is achieved by yourself fiddling on cold mornings, once you get it right it should start just fine.

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

This is a bad tune (or at least worse than mine).

To be fair, it can be tricky to get right.

But it can be made to be right.

My car (of all cars!) will crank over 3-4 times and start at any temp on E85, through one attempt of turning the key and I'm on my way, ready for my car to break something else.

It can be done, hence my confusion on the subject. 6 turns of the key is quite different to 6 turns of the starter motor to get up and going on the way to work.

6 turns of the key, cranking for about 3-4 seconds each time. Then you have to keeps the revs up nice n high everytime you slip the clutch for the first couple of minutes of driving

This'd be a dream for me atm...

Mine rolled into the tuner with 1/4 tank of ~P100, drained with the fuel pump and topped off with E85... so the tune was done in warm weather with ~10% Petrol

Started up 2nd or 3rd rotation of the engine on the first crank in the following weeks (barely driven), but after the next track day (and multiple tanks of E85 bringing it back to a Pure mixture) it turned to crap.

4-5 Cranks of ~5 seconds each... not even giving a cough until the 3rd crank, and once it was running I could even touch the throttle until the water temp got up to 40/50c, anything more than 10% throttle would cause the engine to choke out and revs to drop to stalling danger zone.

Once running and warm, it was perfect for the rest of the day... But trying to cold start an E85 car with an incomplete cold start tune, before 6am, with a Ti straight through exhaust... It's not my idea of a fun time. I'm sure it'll be perfect after dropping it back into the tuner for a few days to get a touch up now that the variables (fuel and temp) are correct...

But Birds is right, E85 doesn't have the appeal it used to for street cars, mainly due to the price coming back up so the savings no longer counter the inconvenience and increased usage (reducing range)

Ric I normally dig the styles but that "nanna's just made us marmalade on toast" shirt is ruining it for me...the colour contrast works but dat pattern damn

It's a bit more poppin irl :(

Hamish is a notorious gingham warrior, he can back me up

  • Like 1

Truthfully, all tuning (other than power tuning) takes a lot of time, a lot of logging, a lot of driving around, cruising, half throttle, DIY'ing the cold start and making little corrections here and there.

And then on most ECU's, get ready for corrections for 98, and just a lot of little tweaks here and there. Having someone have it overnight for just a flex tune is just near impossible to get fully right, so I'm not surprised people have e85 cold start issues or boggy spots on the fuel that they don't use 95% of the time - The time it takes to get it spot on is WAY more than what you spend going WOT on the dyno, but people aren't going to spend $3000 on labor to get a tune 100% spot on..... until you change... anything.

But Birds is right, E85 doesn't have the appeal it used to for street cars, mainly due to the price coming back up so the savings no longer counter the inconvenience and increased usage (reducing range)

Still appeals to me, as it has saved my new race engine a couple of times. (reg hose popped off and ran 16:1 at 32 psi at Sandown.) A petrol tune would have melted the pistons within a lap.

I don't know enough about how E85 runs cooler than 98, but the issue with mine is if I want more power (more boost) I need an intercooler as any more boost than I'm currently running starts to heat soak, even in summer + a few good runs you can feel the power drop off a bit. Would E85 eliminate heat soaking issues? or does the air need to be cooled before going in..? Would basically save buying an intercooler, and I could pump like another 5psi in with a new pulley + injectors only. (cos yeah, intercoolers are like ~5k for a decent one)

I guessing this isn't how it works though as I'm sure people on the ford forums would be all over it

Edited by UNR33L
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch hydraulics are also all good, looks like a brand new slave cylinder and everything bled up well. No idea what the actual clutch is, and I don't intend to pull the box off on the floor to find out, so unless we have trouble on the dyno or at shakedown that will remain a mystery for the new owner
    • Front brakes are G4 8 pot calipers over 330mm discs with braided lines. Everything looks good, pretty sure these are off my old 350. Pads are brand new and judging from gold colour are Winmax which is what I also run on my race car, Neil and I both sourced brake stuff from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney who really knows his stuff Everything has bled up nicely with all new Motul RBF600 fluid, there were 2 loose hard line connections and the calipers were new on the car so I ended up doing it 3 times but it is perfect now
    • So, starting with the rear brakes. They look like standard R33 GTST, and will need new pads shortly (less than 5mm material, probably only 1 day left). The slotted discs (probably DBA) are near new at 18.01mm and the lines are braided
    • I clean my wheels every time I wash the car, I also clean the barrels, the only product I use on the wheels is truck wash and a pressure washer, followed by (inset your chosen name brand) wash and wax, time per wheel is probably 2 minutes total, cleaning the barrels is easy with one of these microfibre thingies on a stick from Sabco, they're also great for getting in between the front guards and body, and tight spots in the engine bay  
    • An updated post here. Sounds to me like there's definitely a bit of sketchiness here.  Old mate with 10 rusting Torana's in the front yard might be more who they're focussed on. (For right or wrong).
×
×
  • Create New...