Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would I get away with saying $5k for an evo seeing as it is listed as a 2001 lancer?

or do they inspect it now?

(it's been a LOOOOOOONG time since I bought a car with rego)

It's market value or purchase price same as stamp duty on a house

See the government cares not how much over the top you pay but try and undersell and boy are the on you like a tonne of bricks

Stop people rorting the system / not filling state coffers appropriately (in there eyes)

would I get away with saying $5k for an evo seeing as it is listed as a 2001 lancer?

or do they inspect it now?

(it's been a LOOOOOOONG time since I bought a car with rego)

They don't inspect on the spot but they do random audits, if yours gets audited then you get a fine on top of the realistic value at the time. As well as your car being derego'd until you pay it

I just paid mine in accordance with red book. f**k taking the chance man. Came to like $6-700

And it is listed as a lancer evolution 4g63t if its listed as a lancer I'd like to hear from you when a cop pulls you over and knows the difference

It's not just what you tell em. It's what the vin comes up as

yeh, the Vin will be a CT9A number, however when you do a vehicle search this is the only thing that indicates an EVO

I might just have to pay it :/

it's not the money, it's the principal.. i'm fkn SICK of paying fines and fees to live in victoria

Market Value? I thought it was purchase price? When I bought my 33, the seller was like "Do you want me to fudge this value on the vicroads form? Save you some transfer money?"

Purchase price or market value - whichever is higher. So if you sell a car to a relo for $10 you should put market value... Believe vicroads can fine if you put something unreasonable

and on that note:

This is my official resignation from paying attention to speed signs and road rules.

I have tried to follow the law and no matter what I do I keep getting bullshit fines. In the last 10 years I have received two tickets for less than 5km over whilst trying to do the limit, and one for 58 in a 50 that I thought was a 60.

Add this to being pinned for using my mobile phone whilst stuck in a traffic jam not moving, and a red light fine for a light that was clearly orange when i went through and i've had enough.

They fine you one way or the other... I might as well just do whatever I feel like and pay the fines like I would anyway.

Well done Vic Gov / Vic Pol... I am now ofically less safe on the roads than I was before all your bullshit revenue raising.

:rant:

that's what I thought...

I cant beleive you have to pay 4% of the "market value" just to change the name on a second hand car... even for victoria that's bullshit

You can still be creative...if you happened to buy the vehicle with a myriad of problems (but still RW) at the time and fixed them up after transfer of registration, well it's not your fault the market value has gone up since your value-adding repairs were done.

My only concern would be...and I'm not 100% on it...if insurance would kick up a fuss in the event of a claim and refer to your registration stamp duty for a cheaper covered value.

You can still be creative...if you happened to buy the vehicle with a myriad of problems (but still RW) at the time and fixed them up after transfer of registration, well it's not your fault the market value has gone up since your value-adding repairs were done.

My only concern would be...and I'm not 100% on it...if insurance would kick up a fuss in the event of a claim and refer to your registration stamp duty for a cheaper covered value.

no they wont.

i declared 6k on my 32R.

I definitely didn't put down what I paid for my car lol. Vic Roads only know my car as a 2002 Nissan Coupe. A GT-T is worth about $15k :)

And I know someone who did get caught once. All they made him do was pay the difference. No penalty fee.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
×
×
  • Create New...