Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no you dont, all you need is a thermometer, hot water and an esky ;)

sous-vide almost all my red meat and a lot of other stuff at home, and I dont have a controller

Nah, would be less... even with the capability to have that much power they will provide a detuned engine that can handle any fuel that idiots put in it, and then increase the output by like 5kw with each new model

What kind of temperatures do you need to keep it at? Could you use one of those home brew kits?

no you dont, all you need is a thermometer, a straw, zip tie freezeer bags, hot water and an esky ;)

I sous-vide almost all my red meat and a lot of other stuff at home, and I dont have a controller

Nah, would be less... even with the capability to have that much power they will provide a detuned engine that can handle any fuel that idiots put in it, and then increase the output by like 5kw with each new model

http://www.carsguide.com.au/news-and-reviews/car-news/hsv_supercharged_v8_tipped_to_top_w427

I cook most meat at 58c as per MY digital thermometer, and it comes out perfect every time, although my thermometer is pretty mangled as I have dropped it in the sousvide bath about 10 times and into a pot of 175c oil whilst deepfrying...

I usually get my steak from the vic market, leave it in the fridge until dinner and then throw it straight in a HOT griddle pan for like 60 seconds on each side to get some caramelisation on there, then throw it into some ziplock bags, suck out all the air with a straw and lock quickly.

drop it into the esky with the bag jammed in by the lid to hold the meat near the top of the water. set a timer for 45 - 60 mins and go watch tv or cook the other dinner bits

come back an hour later and chuck the bag on the bench to cool a little. and let the protien strands relax

cut the meat against the grain and throw on the plate with whatever sauce and sides I have made.

100% perfect medium rare rump steak that is as tender as all hell... every time

even the 427 would have only been say 300-320rwkw TOPS

I dont think it will be beating leigh's 370rwkw in a hurry, and it will be the TOP model @ $100k +

these are only guesses ofcourse

Also rwkw != manufacturer stated fly kw...

427 cubic inches = 7.0L

Bitch plz I could make 320rwkw with a few little mods to my little 2.5L ;)

mmmm but jelly of dat torque and power band... Super charged dyno graphs are boring... may as well go look at a wall, it's almost as flat.

inb4 leigh invites me to prinny...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...