Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3.4l RB is the most I am aware of...

also a lot of the Ford guys running sub 11 Barra's are actually de-stroking to 3.6 / 3.7 odd due to vibration issues at high RPM

Destroking? What is this madness

Edge motorworks sounds promising

Call and Barry answers

Him: You vont stroker?

Me: Yeah that or an RB30 bottom end

Him: Yah 30 torque monsta...lots of power...do that

I like where this is going

Hahaha.

Barry has built a few engines for me, I've always had good experiences.

Be patient though.

Number is 0401300028 just in case you are still waiting for a PM.

Unrelated:

Today switched from 50,000km old KU31 235s on the front and nearly bald R1R 265s on the rear to AD08 255s and AD08R 265s respectively.

Wow what a transformation. Those tyres are unbelievably good value for the $220 each they cost me. So much corner grip it's ridiculous; just turns in so well with the 255s up front. And finally a set of road tyres that can hold my 2nd gear all the way through - time to break out the G-tech again Leigh :P

Mind you, those KU31 are an incredibly hard wearing tyre. Still 40% tread left on these. Awesome value for a daily driver not pushing too much power.

Also it's friggen handy living literally across the road from a tyre workshop. Cash tyre changes and alignments ftw - dude was trying to convince me to sign up to a drift event coming up lol

so your finally working out that those toyos were NOT great preformance tyres...


what next realise that D1R's are not great light weight rims.....

that said ordering some RS3s next wek ust to not be on the Yoko band wagon .. or mroe to the point as they don;t do discounts on 17's......

how the hell do you crack a fuel tank?

I honestly want to know, because I've split four tanks now.

Four!

From two different cars.

By now, I absolutely know the plumbing of the charcoal canister back to front.

You can't even find this shit on google. Seriously, look for "R34 cracked fuel tank" and behold the lack of .. anythings.

It's quite shit. Surely I have to be doing something wrong like pumping 30PSI into my fuel tank, but having checked the lines there's nothing there.

Looks like the crack is right up top though, so it only leaks when I'm at 100% fuel. It stops leaking and the gauge is still pinned to the top, so, gonna be filling up 75% until I buy a new tank from Nissan.

I've since disconnected the charcoal canister.

But seriously, ffs.

Birds my pain is real.

I'd assume your chassis is twisted due to all of the massive torques... hopefully its so twisted that a 33 tank will fit ;)

I'm just trying to get rid of it out of the garage, so take it and see, then it's your problem and not mine.

Looking at the pics here http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444306-r33-gtr-and-r33-gtst-fuel-tanks-the-same/

Looks to be very similar, though I can't remember which side some of the hoses run to. I swear they may be different but there's no way to know until the thing is out of the car. Which really needs a hoist.

If only there was a guy with a hoist who does things on the cheap...............

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...