Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 12/10/2011 at 6:50 AM, sturb25 said:

Im buying a new clutch for my Series 2 RS4 S and just wanted to confirm at that it is the same as an R34 GTT pull type clutch 250 x 25.5 x 24

It will fit

I personally would at least go a R33 GTR as it has a higher clamp pressure

Esp because of the 1800kg stagea.

  On 12/10/2011 at 10:42 AM, Bronx said:

its r34 gtt/gtr and also r33 GTR clutch that should fit. also isnt the rs4s a heap lighter than 1800kg? mine was put on a scale and returned 1602kg with 1/4 tank of petrol.

1600 or 1800kg doesn't really matter. The extra 200-300kg and AWD is the killer over a lighter RWD is the problem

I have had to change my clutch twice. First one was 3200lb and died after one trip to the drags. I now run 4200lb clamp pressure and carbontec plate, 50% more then a stock GTR (approx 2800lb?) clutch. No slip now

R34 GTR clutch is not exactly the same.

either way its a brick, agreed. my clutch is starting to slip slowly, i dont know if its standard or aftermarket yet, but was running 220kw pretty well.

i thought the r34GTR clutches did fit in the gearbox, except for certain triple-quad plates that had trouble fitting.

everytime I go to my mechanic.... for the last 2 years.... "your clutch is really thin... u will have to replace it soon" haha whistling.gif

well its lasted til now, and I still haven't noticed much difference..

  On 12/10/2011 at 11:11 PM, Stooge007 said:

what's the pricing on clutches?

I bought a exedy heavy duty organic clutch, and got it fitted for $1200. Through the only shop here that would touch an import. Don't know if that's good or not, but given they were the only one who would touch it, they probably price gouge a little bit.

  On 13/10/2011 at 3:56 AM, lilcrash said:

I recommend against the exert heavy duty organic, only rated to 376kw and slips like a whore.

at the moment mine is basically stock, but clutch holds really well, mind you as i say it is very new. has held up to a few hard launches so far.

  • 3 months later...
  On 13/10/2011 at 3:45 AM, Bronx said:

in the next couple of months, im going to save up for a SPEC clutch so i can do a review on them and let yall know how they really are. will be opting for a SPEC super twin plate

did you end up getting the SPEC clutch?

cost?

i'm looking for something to replace the stock clutch, no planned mods/upgrades, car (RS Four S) is stock

havent had enough money yet to get my one. mate of mine got a stage 3+ from spec and hes running 340kw thats single plate, no clutch slips.

even done a handful of clutch dumps from 7000rpm. still holding strong.

  On 12/10/2011 at 10:28 PM, atomaly said:

everytime I go to my mechanic.... for the last 2 years.... "your clutch is really thin... u will have to replace it soon" haha whistling.gif

well its lasted til now, and I still haven't noticed much difference..

Out of curiosity - How does he know this ? What, everytime you go there he seperates your gearbox from the engine to see how much meat is left ? or does a simple clutch dump with revs which will fry even a new stock clutch ?

Mine slipped when i first bought the car with over 3500rpm and a soft dump of clutch. I have had it for over 2 years and still have not replaced it ! (and i don't drive like a granny either :D)

this is making me think if mine is stock, i have never had my gbox off, but i have clutch dumped in awd from 7krpm and it slipped quickly but grabbed right back.

aftermarket anyone?

I had a stock R33 GTR clutch rebuilt by Jim Berry (Race Clutch) to suit 300RWKW and it died after taking it to the drags with approx 8-9 hard launches with 240rwkw. Pressure plate was approx 3000lb, organic plate

It did slip at drags and no tyre spin

Had the clutch rebuilt again to 4200LB with Carbonic sprung puck plate. No slips at all at drags with 260rwkw

Went well all day and dropped 1/2 sec, but had major first gear wheel spin. Used it for the last 4 months. Was meant to be good for 400RWKW.

Last week, dumped it, 1st and 2nd..........now it won't change gear at all now.

Clutch related problem and yet to pull gearbox out and find out what went wrong.....

Cost of each rebuild is approx $850. Need to find a better solution...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...