20,000Km Overdue Service On A Gtr- What Should I Do? Engine Flush?

[drifter 33]

i have bought a GTR and the last owner says it hasnt been sericed in the last 20,000kms.

what should i do appart from the normal oils/filters/spark plugs/timing belt

is there a engine flush?

any help would be great

thankyou

[sh@un]

all that

hope you got it cheap

[Moodles2]

Not changing the oil for that ammount of time is bad, but it's even worse when there is a turbocharger or 2 involved, it's quite common oil seals (rear main being one of them) have deteriorated and all that is holding those seals together is the sludge from the old oil.

If you do the timing belt, do the whole 100,000km service (belt, tensioner + idler pulley, both cam seals and the crank seal, water pump).

Since the previous owner didn't GAF, I think these 2 are important: brake and clutch fluid. While these should be done for peace of mind: front and rear diff, transfer case and gearbox too if it's hard to shift gears or crunches gears.

As for oil go with something very detergent heavy, it might even be worth getting some cheap oil in the correct weight (10w40) and using it to flush out the crap before putting a good oil in.

It's very lucky the engine hasn't spun a bearing actually.

[defari]

i have bought a GTR and the last owner says it hasnt been sericed in the last 20,000kms.

why on earth would you do that? unless it was extremely cheap..

id get it to a mechanic asap - oils / fluids etc the list goes on and on

[Greekos]

use motul turbolight

[GTRNUR]

I'd be going the other way with the oil.

Get a cheap 10w40 mineral oil, and change it every weekend for 2 weeks. While running the mineral oil don't drive the car even remotely hard. Just run it up to temp gently and keep the revs below 4500. Especially dont flog it when its cold. The idea is you want to filter as much crap out of the oil system as you can, not have it bypass the filter and get to your bearings. Higher revs mean high oil pressure which results in some oil bypassing the filter.

After your 2nd quick change, then fill it with royal purple/motul or some other high quality synthetic.

Everything else you change and do will be determined by the age of the car, its level of tune and how many k's are on the odometer. Timing belts are a 100,000k item as are the tensioners. It would make sense to change the diffs, gearbox, transfer case, steering fluids and coolant just so you can start a logbook for the car's servicing. Then do the next service of these area's at 1/2 the due km's.

And in the meantime fingers crossed that nothing has been damaged by the neglect.

[Hadouken]

You need to get that car checked out asap. Dont smash it anywhere!

Did you get a mechanic to overlook the car prior to buying it?

[evlwog]

Agreed with GTRNUR, dont flush it with an actual engine flush, (i have seen those things loosen up too much stuff and actually damage the engine) use the likes of gtx and do regular filter and oil changes i went anal and did 2 changes in 300 kms so clocked 100km after the first one, dropped it then did 200kms dropped it and kept doing 200km cycles untill it started to keep it's color took about 4 all up, i also split the filters to see is any crap came through and there was none, once i was happy i put in 300v, and change religouslty every 3500km funny thing is that the oil now keeps it nice clean colour for some time before going crappy. I would'nt stress too much about it in that oil quality these days is pretty good to the extent that some manufacturers are recommending 15k intervals on turbo charged cars. but thats no reason to sit on it . might even pay to take the rockers covers off 20 min job and have a look to see if there are any chips of shit built up in there, that is always a good indicator to the rest of the insides.

I'd be going the other way with the oil.

Get a cheap 10w40 mineral oil, and change it every weekend for 2 weeks. While running the mineral oil don't drive the car even remotely hard. Just run it up to temp gently and keep the revs below 4500. Especially dont flog it when its cold. The idea is you want to filter as much crap out of the oil system as you can, not have it bypass the filter and get to your bearings. Higher revs mean high oil pressure which results in some oil bypassing the filter.

After your 2nd quick change, then fill it with royal purple/motul or some other high quality synthetic.

Everything else you change and do will be determined by the age of the car, its level of tune and how many k's are on the odometer. Timing belts are a 100,000k item as are the tensioners. It would make sense to change the diffs, gearbox, transfer case, steering fluids and coolant just so you can start a logbook for the car's servicing. Then do the next service of these area's at 1/2 the due km's.

And in the meantime fingers crossed that nothing has been damaged by the neglect.

[drifter 33]

yes a r32 GTR for $5000 i think its cheap

ok so im going to change the oil with cheap 10w40 mineral oil but how many kms should i do before i change it again with either the same cheap oil or good royal purple?

thanks soo much for all your help!!

[defari]

5000 for a gtr? I'd bet there is plenty wrong with it

[Greekos]

ha 5k for a r32 gtr, why bother, not worth the head ache

[TTT]

yes a r32 GTR for $5000 i think its cheap

ok so im going to change the oil with cheap 10w40 mineral oil but how many kms should i do before i change it again with either the same cheap oil or good royal purple?

thanks soo much for all your help!!

$5K gtr???

nice work man!

follow the steps that GTRNUR posted..

Get a cheap 10w40 mineral oil, and change it every weekend for 2 weeks. While running the mineral oil don't drive the car even remotely hard. Just run it up to temp gently and keep the revs below 4500. Especially dont flog it when its cold. The idea is you want to filter as much crap out of the oil system as you can, not have it bypass the filter and get to your bearings. Higher revs mean high oil pressure which results in some oil bypassing the filter.

if it's a daily, change oil and filter this weekend, use it next week, drop the oil and filter that weekend and repeat for one more week.

then put good oil of your choice.

If not a daily, then replaice oil and filter, then put say 200km through it while driving as suggested above.. and drop it and repeat.

most of these cars weren't serviced properly in Japan anyway..

and you got it at a price where you could afford to go get an R34 GTR motor put in for like an extra $5-7K and still be in front.

[rgr34]

5k gtr..... basic oil change not done in 20k..... no doubt every fluid will need doing sounds poorly maintained.... no doubt other issues will come up too....

Edited October 14, 2011 by rgr34

[Hadouken]

Even if other issues pop up, engine and gearbox is covered with the amount he saved.

[GTRNUR]

I'd suggest taking small steps with the car and don't buy anything expensive for it. For example: No synthetic oils.

You have a lot to establish before you go sinking any money into it. If you jump in with both feet trying to restore it to its former glory you could end up with a bottomless money pit very quickly. GTR's can be bottomless pits when they are in good condition, so imagine how bad a neglected one could be.

I'd suggest doing a hot compression test after you do the first oil change. This will give you some idea as to the health of the engine.

Oil pressure when its been running and is over 80 degrees will give you an idea of the bottom end condition. If it still drives ok, then drive it for the first week as is. Only once its proven itself a little would I then suggest changing the diff, gearbox, steering, transfer case and cooling system fluids.

I you jump in too quickly you might just be throwing money away on consumables you will be draining again when you start replacing the broken parts. If things start going wrong, and also if the shell is full of rust it would be worth considering wrecking the car and selling off the components. You will end up making your money back and then some.

Then go looking for another bargin.

[blonk20]

I'd be going the other way with the oil.

Get a cheap 10w40 mineral oil, and change it every weekend for 2 weeks. While running the mineral oil don't drive the car even remotely hard. Just run it up to temp gently and keep the revs below 4500. Especially dont flog it when its cold. The idea is you want to filter as much crap out of the oil system as you can, not have it bypass the filter and get to your bearings. Higher revs mean high oil pressure which results in some oil bypassing the filter.

After your 2nd quick change, then fill it with royal purple/motul or some other high quality synthetic.

Everything else you change and do will be determined by the age of the car, its level of tune and how many k's are on the odometer. Timing belts are a 100,000k item as are the tensioners. It would make sense to change the diffs, gearbox, transfer case, steering fluids and coolant just so you can start a logbook for the car's servicing. Then do the next service of these area's at 1/2 the due km's.

And in the meantime fingers crossed that nothing has been damaged by the neglect.

id pretty well go with this but id change it 2k or so after you do the oil change with good oil... never hurts to put a fresh filter and oil through it

[drifter 33]

i cant get a 10w 40 in mineral oil only a 10x 30 is this going to be ok?

or is it ok to use a semi synthetic 10w 40 just for abit then put good oil?

[TTT]

Shell Helix HX5 is premium blend mineral oil at 10W40

costs about $30 for 5 Litres

I'm running that through a motor now for the next 200kms

super crap auto has it.

[drifter 33]

will a 15w40 mineral be ok??

[GTRNUR]

will a 15w40 mineral be ok??

Yes that will be fine. The main thing you are trying to acomplish is getting the built up garbage out of the engine.

So the pre-requisits to do this are:

No expensive oils unless you happen to own an oil field...

Use a new filter

Change every weekend or 200km as has been suggested for 2 cycles before switching back to synthetic

Dont rev it past 4500, and especially when cold keep the revs low.