Glazed Clutch

[Room42]

Hey boys and girls,

I have an r33 gtst with a gt3582r. When it comes on boost in 3rd the clutch slips. I'm pretty sure it is just glazed. How well would it grip again if I cleaned up the flywheel and pressure plate and clutch facings? I have done this many times before on lower powered cars and it works fine. How will it go on a car with more than 400 hp at the wheels?

Nathan

[jjman]

your theory is correct but you need to bring it back to the logic of, is the cltuch you have in there actually rated for the power (torque) you are putting through it as well as the way you use it (e.g. clutch pops in 3rd to get the boost up...?)

if it is then a clean up could/should do the trick, depending on how badly glazed n hammered it is of course.

otherwise, might be time to upgrade the clutch to take what ur throwing at it (3582 is quite the task master...)

[Room42]

I can live without 3rd gear launches etc but it would be nice to be able to do that. I'd be happy if I could change from 2nd to 3rd without the clutch slipping. It holds about 16 psi without slipping. Any more and it will slip slightly. At 20psi it comes on boost and slips like crazy. It has only slipped twice. I didn't get off it quick enough the first time.

The clutch is a hd organic clutch according to the receipt that I got when I bought the car. I don't think its worn, I'm pretty sure its just glazed. I'm going to pull the box out tomorrow after work and have a sus. If it is worn then I'll have to talk the missus into letting me buy a twin plate of some description.

[The Dan]

Is this a pisstake?

You're seriously going to go to all the trouble of removing the gearbox and cleaning up the flywheel just so you can get your probably 80% worn clutch to grab again for what? 30 days?

If the clutch is new, then it needs to be upgraded because soon it will be slipping in 4th and 5th.

[Dobz]

If you have around 400hp then that clutch is gonna be no good no matter what you do. You need something with more clamping pressure and a better friction material like a brass button clutch disk, if you want a streetable button clutch then a cushioned button clutch would be the way to go.

Unless you enjoy screwing around pulling your gearbox in and out all the time then you'd be best to get a better clutch and tell the missus to stick it if she complains.

Edited October 13, 2011 by Dobz

[Room42]

Is this a pisstake?

You're seriously going to go to all the trouble of removing the gearbox and cleaning up the flywheel just so you can get your probably 80% worn clutch to grab again for what? 30 days?

If the clutch is new, then it needs to be upgraded because soon it will be slipping in 4th and 5th.

First up it seems you are giving me the same level of credit as you would give to a teenager. Secondly I'm interested as to how you came up with the wear factor on my clutch considering you haven't even seen my car let alone driven it or felt the clutch. I wouldn't waste my time posting if I was taking the piss. If you read my posts in other threads you would know that my clutch got burnt a while back when I loaned my car to someone.

The clutch has got to come out anyway. If it isn't worn to shit and is only glazed then yes, it is going back in. Its only 18 months old and had about 200rwkw for the last 6 months.Before then the car was standard. I doubt the clutch is very worn.

Believe it or not I really am going to pull my gearbox out and fix my clutch. That's what you do when a clutch starts to play up. It'll be out, cleaned and back in before Saturday afternoon. Just because a clutch slips doesn't mean its f**ked. If its not worn then after I clean it all it will grip as good as the day it was made for the rest of its life. Like I said I have done this to numerous cars previously.

I have discussed this with my missus (shared finance) and we have decided that it will go back in if it can. If it cant then we will go all out and get a twin plate. I'm not going to spend $600 or so getting a clutch that wont handle the power that I will have next year.

At the worst it will slip because it isn't strong enough and I'll get my twin plate. I'm not about to rush out and spend nearly $3k on a clutch because a the current clutch is slipping. Of course I will clean it up first.

If you have something good to add then by all means leave a comment. Next time you want to jump in my thread and leave useless comments just do us both a favour and don't.

DOBZ: I hear ya. I don't need to tell the missus to stick it tho. We already decided on a plan. I will see if I can fix this clutch first and then if I cant I will go and get something that will hold over 700hp or so. First things first and that is to pull the clutch out and have a look at it. I want to keep my money in the bank earning interest for as long as possible and if this clutch can get me through to next year then that will be good. I have other engine plans for then which will need a good clutch.

[The Dan]

First up it seems you are giving me the same level of credit as you would give to a teenager. Secondly I'm interested as to how you came up with the wear factor on my clutch considering you haven't even seen my car let alone driven it or felt the clutch. I wouldn't waste my time posting if I was taking the piss. If you read my posts in other threads you would know that my clutch got burnt a while back when I loaned my car to someone.

The clutch has got to come out anyway. If it isn't worn to shit and is only glazed then yes, it is going back in. Its only 18 months old and had about 200rwkw for the last 6 months.Before then the car was standard. I doubt the clutch is very worn.

Believe it or not I really am going to pull my gearbox out and fix my clutch. That's what you do when a clutch starts to play up. It'll be out, cleaned and back in before Saturday afternoon. Just because a clutch slips doesn't mean its f**ked. If its not worn then after I clean it all it will grip as good as the day it was made for the rest of its life. Like I said I have done this to numerous cars previously.

I have discussed this with my missus (shared finance) and we have decided that it will go back in if it can. If it cant then we will go all out and get a twin plate. I'm not going to spend $600 or so getting a clutch that wont handle the power that I will have next year.

At the worst it will slip because it isn't strong enough and I'll get my twin plate. I'm not about to rush out and spend nearly $3k on a clutch because a the current clutch is slipping. Of course I will clean it up first.

If you have something good to add then by all means leave a comment. Next time you want to jump in my thread and leave useless comments just do us both a favour and don't.

DOBZ: I hear ya. I don't need to tell the missus to stick it tho. We already decided on a plan. I will see if I can fix this clutch first and then if I cant I will go and get something that will hold over 700hp or so. First things first and that is to pull the clutch out and have a look at it. I want to keep my money in the bank earning interest for as long as possible and if this clutch can get me through to next year then that will be good. I have other engine plans for then which will need a good clutch.

Woah, start by pulling your f**king head in

Secondly I asked the question, I didn't tell you it was a pisstake. Slow it down and read what I wrote because you clearly did not.

And I quote

"probably 80% worn clutch to grab again for what? 30 days?

If the clutch is new, then it needs to be upgraded because soon it will be slipping in 4th and 5th."

See the word probably? then I said if it is new and slipping then it needs to be upgraded. Take it how you will but you need to step it down a notch before you attack people for replying

If you have an organic clutch and it isn't one of the high clamp 250mm plates getting around, then 400hp at the wheels is going to fry it. All I am saying is it would be pointless staying with a clutch that cannot hold the torque you are making.

Now I'll just go back over that in case you forget to read it properly again. Notice I didn't say you DID have an organic clutch, I was only assuming you do but it's a little hard to tell from your extremely descriptive original post. I read it several times trying to find any shred of helpful information but alas, I could not. So if you want informative or educational answers to your questions where you are asking for peoples opinions, get a f**king clue first and 1. Be more descriptive and 2. Read the advise CAREFULLY and 3. Take a chill pill before you read it because it seems every reply I have seen from you has been an aggressive onslaught at people who don't get what you're talking about.

Oh shit you're in Perth. I should not have wondered why you arced up so hard

[The Dan]

And you don't need to spend $3k to get a clutch to hold 400hp at the wheels. If your engine plans come to fruition then maybe a twinplate is warranted but the NPC single plates we use are holding in excess of 600whp. The organic 250mm plates we have made are good for 400whp but haven't tested them above that.

If it has slipped twice and you machine the flywheel, of course it is going to grip a little better for a short period of time. 240rwkw is the rated maximum for the Exedy HD organic clutch. I'm sure there are people running around with slightly more and I'm sure there are others with less who can make them slip. The point is, the clutch is not adequate for the job so nothing you do is going to change that. But if you can change it yourself, go ahead, it's only your time.

[Room42]

Woah, start by pulling your f**king head in

Secondly I asked the question, I didn't tell you it was a pisstake. Slow it down and read what I wrote because you clearly did not.

And I quote

"probably 80% worn clutch to grab again for what? 30 days?

If the clutch is new, then it needs to be upgraded because soon it will be slipping in 4th and 5th."

See the word probably? then I said if it is new and slipping then it needs to be upgraded. Take it how you will but you need to step it down a notch before you attack people for replying

If you have an organic clutch and it isn't one of the high clamp 250mm plates getting around, then 400hp at the wheels is going to fry it. All I am saying is it would be pointless staying with a clutch that cannot hold the torque you are making.

Now I'll just go back over that in case you forget to read it properly again. Notice I didn't say you DID have an organic clutch, I was only assuming you do but it's a little hard to tell from your extremely descriptive original post. I read it several times trying to find any shred of helpful information but alas, I could not. So if you want informative or educational answers to your questions where you are asking for peoples opinions, get a f**king clue first and 1. Be more descriptive and 2. Read the advise CAREFULLY and 3. Take a chill pill before you read it because it seems every reply I have seen from you has been an aggressive onslaught at people who don't get what you're talking about.

Oh shit you're in Perth. I should not have wondered why you arced up so hard

The thing is pal almost every time I post something on this site there is some smart arse telling me some stupid shit. I've had enough of teenagers and 20 something year olds repeating the same crap they have heard from others that know f**k all and haven't tried it themselves. There is one bloke I know for fact doesn't know his shit yet he keeps adding stuff to threads that he is repeating from others while I am pulling out what is left of my hair.

When you start talking to me with the words " Is this a pisstake??" I am likely to tell you to get f**ked. Simple. Then you tell me to pull my f**king head in. Mate If you were standing face to face with me you wouldn't talk to me like that. Not because I would be aggressive but because you would realize that I have been working on cars for the last 20 years and I know what I'm on about. If you had posted you second post first then I wouldn't have blasted you.

You say it will slip in 4th and 5th. Have a think about what speed I would be going to make 20 psi on a rb25det in 4th or 5th. That is a slighty stupid comment.

But anyway no point carrying on about it. I'm sorry I came across like that. I just put you into the same basket as other know it alls and clearly I jumped the gun. The reasons are above. Thanks for the second post as it was very useful. The car has around 400 or more hp for now but will be turned up when it can handle it better ie: new clutch.

[zebra]

The thing is pal almost every time I post something on this site there is some smart arse telling me some stupid shit. I've had enough of teenagers and 20 something year olds repeating the same crap they have heard from others that know f**k all and haven't tried it themselves. There is one bloke I know for fact doesn't know his shit yet he keeps adding stuff to threads that he is repeating from others while I am pulling out what is left of my hair.

The thing is, you want credit for working on cars for 20 years.

But you wont give credit to anyone else.

So as soon as a) someone gives advice which you don't agree with, you jump down their throats

or

b) Someone says something that you don't know about, you jump down their throats

There is more than one way to skin a cat

[Room42]

Mate I don't want credit. I just don't want to hear stupid comments that don't help anyone. So far there since I joined sau I have seen 90 % bullshit and 10% truth

[wolverine]

since I joined sau I have seen 90 % bullshit and 10% truth

Stop reading my posts then.

[Room42]

I'm on my phone at work but I'll try not to wolverine.

[The Dan]

You say it will slip in 4th and 5th. Have a think about what speed I would be going to make 20 psi on a rb25det in 4th or 5th. That is a slighty stupid comment.

But anyway no point carrying on about it. I'm sorry I came across like that. I just put you into the same basket as other know it alls and clearly I jumped the gun. The reasons are above. Thanks for the second post as it was very useful. The car has around 400 or more hp for now but will be turned up when it can handle it better ie: new clutch.

Not necessarily. It isn't the boost so much that makes it slip. Clutches slip due to torque. The torque your engine has to output to drive the car in higher gears is greater at lower speeds so generally clutches will slip in higher gears first. It's just probably that you use third more aggressively at the moment.

Trust me, I know where you are coming from, I have been a mechanic for many years myself and run a business that specialises in high performance Skylines. I worked in the clutch and brake industry for 5 years so I have seen many 'older' mechanics try to get away with old tricks. These things come up onto torque more aggressively than cars used to due to turbo chargers etc. so clutches will tend to slip when their torque threshhold is reached.

I am also not 20 something or a backyard overnighter - have been helping SAU personally since 2002, donate to the club, give discount to members and all that. Yes I can be a prick at times when I'm tired but thats usually the same time I read funny posts from 20 somethings trying to do what you are doing. My palm is always facebound in those instances. More credit will be given in future

[SargeRX8]

Carbotic 5 puk button clutch. Shudders like shit in reverse but grips fine with room for 550nm at the wheels. $380.

[GTRSOL]

AMEN elite racing..it is torque that creates slip,

i have a 32 GTR that i have done a clutch in a few weeks ago.....drop it at 6000rpm second gear at 80kmh wouldnt slip.....

let is rev from 3000 at 30kmh would slip right out. infact i could even pull third and fourth gear high revs but low revs would fry it.

[SargeRX8]

Its like at work yesterday, I was trying to push a 300kg trolley and with the shoes I was wearing and the torque I was pushing against the trolley, something had to give and I slipped. If I had shoes with better rubber, I could have easily pushed the trolley. Torque is a measurement of force required to move an object or how much force something can create. Had that trolley been moving and I was running full force into it, the momentum of the trolley will help me push it and the load won't be so sudden.

I recall reading here some mechanic who wears in clutches by doing 2nd gear dumps. Retard.

[The Dan]

Its like at work yesterday, I was trying to push a 300kg trolley and with the shoes I was wearing and the torque I was pushing against the trolley, something had to give and I slipped. If I had shoes with better rubber, I could have easily pushed the trolley. Torque is a measurement of force required to move an object or how much force something can create. Had that trolley been moving and I was running full force into it, the momentum of the trolley will help me push it and the load won't be so sudden.

I recall reading here some mechanic who wears in clutches by doing 2nd gear dumps. Retard.

That's a little bit silly mate

You should be using a motorised pallet jack to move objects like that

[turboedsloth]

Its like at work yesterday, I was trying to push a 300kg trolley and with the shoes I was wearing and the torque I was pushing against the trolley, something had to give and I slipped. If I had shoes with better rubber, I could have easily pushed the trolley. Torque is a measurement of force required to move an object or how much force something can create. Had that trolley been moving and I was running full force into it, the momentum of the trolley will help me push it and the load won't be so sudden.

I recall reading here some mechanic who wears in clutches by doing 2nd gear dumps. Retard.

You need to try out Dunlop Volleys, they are the best for grip, especially roof work

[The Dan]

You need to try out Dunlop Volleys, they are the best for grip, especially roof work

Not to mention the street cred