Please Look At My Rb3025 Tune And Give Me Your Pov

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Looking at your timing map of the latest changes, they don't look that bad... Good on you for giving it ago mate!

Don't bother with the people here that are on their high horse, I tried asking for help years ago and I got pretty much the same response told me to go to a tuner or told me that I am doing it wrong ra ra ra and gave me zero advise, I ended up reading up on other forums, such as the evolutionm forum (I know it's an EVO forum, but everyone shares their thoughts on tuning, etc..) Not going to mention names, but someone on this forum tuned my car when I had no idea about tuning and on full load my car was at 12.5+ A/F and timing was all over the shop.. I had more timing in rows P17~P20 than rows P15~16 go figure.. I was a n00b, but yeah lucky I didn't blow up my motor.

If you have a chance to put the car on a dyno, I would in my opinion decrease timing & richen up the mixture as much as 11.3 as it reaches maximum brake torque and then increase very gradually as the torque decays, this will one give you a flatter torque curve. I know everyone LOVES a flat A/F curve, but the reality is when you bang up an exhaust gas temp, you will see that at MBT exhaust temp i.e. cylinder temps & pressure is at their greatest.

I noticed also rows P16 and P17 are nearly identical in terms of timing, more load should have less timing, and as a safety measure if you don't ever touch rows P18~P20 I would shave off like 4~5 degrees as a safety measure in the event your boost controller fails and you run more boost than expected.

[Room42]

As you would know this is my ign map. I have run 20 psi through a gt3582r on this map. But I have pulled 2 degrees from 17 and one from 16. It knocks under 20 all the time.

[Rolls]

  On 18/10/2011 at 10:33 PM, johnnilicte said:

I noticed also rows P16 and P17 are nearly identical in terms of timing, more load should have less timing, and as a safety measure if you don't ever touch rows P18~P20 I would shave off like 4~5 degrees as a safety measure in the event your boost controller fails and you run more boost than expected.

all the sections of the map that don't get used but would if there was extra load (more boost etc) you should do this to, take timing out and add fuel, if for some reason you run an extra 5psi for some unknown reason could save the motor.

[Room42]

You are on the money rolls. I can run the extra 1 and 2 degrees if it is 16 psi. At 20 psi the knock went to 50 hence the couple of degrees pulled. This map was originally made for the stock turbo running 14 psi. I haven't changed any of the timing our fuel yet except the couple of degrees. The reason that there were a couple of load lines the same is that was the max load the stocker saw and I wanted no extrapolation there.

[Room42]

Oh btw the unused load lines up top were adjusted by me. They will be close to spot on but aren't tested yet.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

would be awesome if he was able to provide a trace across the rev range, with low, med, max throttle, I noticed also his Acceleration Injection is all static.. I personally wouldn't set it as such, the stock values work well enough, if the car splutters at certains RPMs just add a touch more until it stops. I find out with too much for lower RPM you find the A/F dips heaps on throttle pump

I think there should be a dedicated branch of the forum purely for self tuners

[urtwhistle]

Sorry for the slow reply, I too don't understand why ppl class tuning as a dark art. If you have the correct equipment, patience and be very slow and methodical it can't be that difficult. obviously experience helps immensly.

Thanks for the heads up about the EGT temps, what temps are you guys targeting at MBT? And very valid points on dropping timing and fueling it up on any cells that arn't used. I might have to do a log whilst dragging the brakes and see what I get.

I have tryed to only touch setting from 0-4500 rpm as that is all I have been driving in.

Johnny, since posting the last "current" tune I have actually copied the enrichment settings from Room42's map and it appears to drive alot nicer to what the original settings were.

If I get a chance tonight I'll do some traces for you as mentioned and you can all tell me what you think.

oh and finally pulled my finger out now that I know its not going to explode and have been talking to Steve Thomas who does ALOT of the west aussy race car's and will eventually be getting him to fine tune it.

[Room42]

You might find that the enrichment for the first couple of thousand rpm is a tiny bit much. I run my car fairly lean down low rpm/load so there is a tad extra enrichment to help it pick up. As jonnilicte said you will notice it as a quick rich spot when you move the throttle.

Dragging on the brakes wont get you a higher load cell than wot will. It might get to the same load line earlier ie: before boost and coming onto boost. These unused cells can be made like their used neighbour as you wouldn't use them on the road anyway. Using the brakes will however enable you to hold a cell that you cant usually hold.

Here is a map trace from this afternoon. I drove to the highway normally and then used wot from near idle in 2nd gear.