Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First of all when i installed it Everything is fine but the idle sits at 1.5 When my old cluster was in there it was sitting at 1G. So what i did was swap the motor on the back of the rev taco and replaced it with my old one , So now its sits at 900 at idle i mean its closer then 1.5 But anyways i just noticed the rev taco is really slow i mean i put my foot down and it lags its not responsive at ALL Id push the throttle and it sounds like it reaches 5k-rpm and drops but because its so slow it doesnt even reach 5k it gets to 3k and by that time the rev is already back to idle so it makes its way back down again. FYI my speedo cable has snapped recently as well i dont know if that will make it lag so much! IM SO FRUSTRATED I spent 350 on this cluster i dont want to throw it in the f*kN BIN ARGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! what shall i do???

The reason i swapped it in the first place is because the nismo taco used to read 1.5k when it was really 1000-1100 and when i played with the rev counter it used to be floppy as in when i lifter the needle to 3k or whatever the needle would just drop back free fall instead of slowly go down. my oem taco didnt do that used to drop down slowly. maybe i didnt push the needle backin right?

I had exactly the same problem,

Here is the fix:

firstly I would put the nismo motor on the tacho back on then:

you need to take note of the idle with your standard dash, then pull the face off and back ( from memory ) so you can get to the back of the tacho inside the dash, there is a small calibration screw on the side of it, just adjust to match old one thumbsup.gif

make sure you have very clean hands and don't leave dust and stuff inside the dash.. cotton gloves if you have them to stop finger marks, I just made sure I didn't touch the inside screen.

If its just a tacho issue that should fix it.

Edited by tricstar

I remember seeing that screw how the hell can you adjust it while its idling? anyways i think I fixed it, OMG its so fiddly, anyways it seems like the needle itself was not pushed in properly and was the reason its slow cause it was getting stuck at certain points.

Anyways when you put the needle back on the face how the hell do you know what position your meant to push it in, I actually had the car started and i pulled the needle off and pushed it back on at the right position. It was like Trial and error until i got it in the right position...

Anyways at the moment my idle taco shows 1000-1100, My power FC shows 980-1000-rpm... Is this normal?? Anyways im thinking of pulling the face off again and matching it to exactly what the power fc shows? Is that more correct then the actual taco itself?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
×
×
  • Create New...