R33 Gts-T Spec 2 Boost Cut/fuel Cut

[Mr.Vain]

Hey there,

A few weeks ago I installed a FMIC and Gizzmo boostcontroller.

I turned the boost up to 0,85 bar with sometimes a spike to 0,9bar. Everything was running fine for a few days, but now i'm expieriencing boost cuts when I go in to high boost.

The problem is when I fully boost and the boost reaches 0,7 bar (sometimes it happens at 0,8 bar) I get a sort of fuel cut or boost cut.

I checked all the FMIC piping and boost solonoid hoses and everything looks fine.

I did check my spark plugs which are still good. Now I know my AFM is a damaged a bit, which causes my car doesn't run very stable on idle or low speeds.

I ordered a new AFM and I hope this also fix the boost problem.

Any other suggestions for what might causes the problem ? The strange thing is that it runned perfectly after the installation and it ONLY happens at high boost.

[SargeRX8]

Obviously too much boost. You are running standard tune, the car will not just adapt to this rise in air. You want more power, save the money, get the parts, get a tune and do it properly.

[Mr.Vain]

Well most of the R33's here in Holland are running 0,85/0,9 bars of boost on stock turbo and stock ecu, without any problems.

So why you think its too much boost ?

[SargeRX8]

because there are more people who have issues with them. how do you know they don't have fuel cut defenders or piggy back ecu's? .8 bar is what, 12psi? .9 is close to 14psi. on stock turbo, on stock tune. its called rich and retard. read about it. isn't it a surprise that it only happens on high boost?

[Mr.Vain]

Okay but then it's still strange it runned perfect for a few days. Also it happens mostly around 0,7 bar which is 10psi.

[Torques]

It reads very much as cut from the ECU.

Maybe you have spikes or whatever, but the ECU reads too much air coming in and tries to protect your engine

...

Rich and retard happens before the hard-cut, so ECU is accessing A/F ratios of around 10 to coold down things.

(Still makes good power though)

Okay but then it's still strange it runned perfect for a few days. Also it happens mostly around 0,7 bar which is 10psi.

Edited October 14, 2011 by Torques

[The Mafia]

Simple test - turn the boost down to 9psi and I bet it stops cutting.

It's a built in protection in the ECU, you need an aftermarket ECU and tune.

[Mr.Vain]

Well yesterday the fuel/boost cut happened around 0,6 bar, so that's like 9psi.

I did read the Rich and Retarted article. So i'm waiting for the new AFM, and I hope this will fix it. I also can try other coilpacks from a friend of mine.

If this all doesn't fix the problem I'm afraid it really is the R&R problem.

[SargeRX8]

Afm might fix something, it might be f**ked. Coils won't do shit as you aren't misfiring.

[89CAL]

It wont let you run 10+ psi boost

I've been there, done that on a stock ECU, it'll be much nicer to drive on 7psi, trust me. I replaced my coilpacks did spark plugs etc and it still didnt want to accept anymore then factory(ish) boost. Some cars it just affects more then others, some are lucky and get away with it

Just trying to save you some money. Either live with stock boost, or save up for Engine management (piggyback or full replacement) You wont look back

[Got a Pulsar]

Have you tried cleaning inside the AFM? worth a try...

I'm sure this helped my R33 when at 10psi.

It did some weird stuff once so I cleaned it, now is all good.

Does it do it all the time? Night : cold and day : warm?