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Don't rush into buying one. I spent over 2 years looking at 32's before I found mine (but that was mostly due to p plate laws). Make sure the engine has good compression, mine was all within 1-2 psi of each other and have not had a problem with anything engine wise in the 10 months that I have owned it (maybe it's because most people reckon I drive it like a nanna). If there is a turbo timer fitted, it does indicate that the previous owner has tried to look after the turbos. I have only had 2 problems with my 32 since owning it. The gearbox started making some unwanted noises (which was fixed under warranty from the car yard I brought it from) and the old Jap battery dying when winter hit. Other then that I know things are going to break eventually, but will just get them fixed when they break.

They are a great car to own and drive. I was the same, wanted one for about 8 years before getting one and haven't been happier, It was my daily for 8 months and every time I drove it brought a silly smile across my face, and even now when I get home from work and see my 32 I still get a silly smile across my face (yes I am forever alone). As for taller people fitting in 32 I am roughly 6ft 6, well that was last time I measured my height which was 2 years ago (and I turn 21 in a few weeks so I bloody not get any taller) and I have had 3 others in the GTR one night and we all fitted. Just find a nice one and take good care of it and you will be fine.

Have had 2. Spent good $$ on both but one I bought for more cost less, ie the mods were already there - forgie, suspension etc. Just tidied it up to suit me specifically - no worries ever.

Other one I bought cheap also forged - this I spent a fair amount of coin to bring it to the cosmetic standard I was after - mechanically though, was mint.

Moral, get a forged one thats already had loads spent on it. The first one I had is for sale if asked about I think... Owner is in NSW. Since I sold it to him, he's rebuilt turbos with stronger internals (-5s), new clutch (hks twin plate couldn't handle power at high revs apparently..) and other stuff. He wants 30k though. Shell done 67-70kish, motor 7-10kish, no rust no dents. Currently making 520-540ish rwhp from memory. My point is, I bought that car for 17.5k and the engine, excluding everything else cost $18k to build.

Just keep hunting.

Ive never had any problems with my RB26 powered cars, apart from a tuner leaning out my wagon, I fkn hate tuna.

Old cars will give you the usual problems, the rubbers going, pipes starting to crack, just get a silicone hose kit and get it sorted.

The usual "buy once, buy right" policy applies.

Lol I wasn't mention to say trash the crap out of it, I look after it big time, it's under covers in my garage right now and I'm away for work. I mention to say thrash the crap out of it, 8k limter launches, flicking it into 2wd and clutch kicking 3rd gear... Never had and issue

cheers lads. i HAVE found a few great examples.

...one in particular has me stumped...

i would go buy it now BUT...

stock turbos. stock engine.

interior is MINT no wear on the leather trim or pedals.

exterior is MINT. few chippies on the front bar but thats it.

now, see my problem? not a cent to be spent on aethsteics, brakes, suspension OR wheels and tyres. there is nothing wrong with the mechanicals..... at this point in time.

and its a steal too..

Then buy it, enjoy it as a stock standard GTR - how nissan meant it to be :)

Also should feel safe knowing no one has molested it?

+1

Nothing wrong with them in stock form. Mine is stock motor and turbos, still has boost restrictor fitted aswell.

Like the other guys said you should buy it if its a good buy and a decent price and you like it enough to want to have it.

Just get it checked out by a decent mechanic with a compression test etc and realise that one day it will need a rebuild so you can be ready for it.

Mate I have a clean r32 Gtr and Ive had it for 8 years and the engine only just let go, but I was being an absolute idiot when it finally did (at a texikahna, not the street).

So yes there are some good ones, get a compression test and pressure test the cooling system and check the normal things (body for rust etc) and enjoy your purchase

Strongly recommend a fuel pump upgrade and tune to suit Aussie fuel, before even driving it though

good ones do exist, you will have to keep looking and make sure you the get the engine tested ! compression test and leak down test atleast.

im still running stock standard internals, perfect oil pressure and 160psi comp, pushing close to 300kw@wheels and i have total faith in it, i could jump in it and drive to melbourne no worries.

yes they are old, yes they have been abused, but good ones do exist !

if you can stretch ur budget and buy one with a rebuild (with reciepts) and after market turbos WIN WIN

ps. mine was bought completly standard still had the restrictor in the boost line, but i slowly built the car up to where i wanted it to be. that way i new exactly what was done to it, and made sure no corners were cut during the process

Edited by SiR_RB

I think the main thing to remember is not to streach your budget. If you have 20K to spend on a car, don't buy a 20K car. That being said i'm not advocating buying a car with a blown engine and stuffed suspension and doing it up, but when the cars are at their current age, its a bit of give and take. Its hard to find a exceptionally clean one, but you might be able to find one with a few minor issues to fix.

Always a good idea to have some money stashed away just in case aswell.

by the way, this applies to any old car... I wouldn't say GTR's are particurally special in that regard.

dont listen to the trolls who turn you against them on forums, their most likely stuck with their auto r33 gts that they cant sell

I got a stock one and added to it slowly.....just because you dont have the money to mod it now doesn't mean you shouldn't buy a stock one if its a good deal

Seriously if you find a stock one keep it that way. There must be atleast two of them left in captivity. Most GTRs have been modified and yet most people want to buy a stocker to modify.

So the best answer is often to get something someone else has spent coin on.

That said I wouldnt mind a stocker and Id even try to keep it that way.

my advise is, if you a worried about the age of the engine etc, is spend more on the purchase eg find one with a fresh engine and new turbos, sure you might have to spend 5k more initially, but saves you worrying about breaking stuff.

But on the other hand stay away from ones claiming to have 100k spent on them very recently then all of a sudden up for sale for 20k.

Find one with the basics done, fresh turbos, fresh engine & pfc or similar (built by a good builder) and talk to the workshop that did the work and be prepared to look at upwards of 10 cars until you find the perfect one for you.

Im in the same boat as you, looking to grab one next year

R32s sure are great legends in their own right..but just wondering, Zebra why you want to go from a stronger 1JZ platform to a potential time bomb old RB26??

Soarers/Supra's are teh suck on race tracks.

I haven't had a trackday fix in 2 and a half years (Soarer is auto)

Plus I know enough people that race them that when we put out heads together I'm sure we can make it live (for a little while anyway lol)

My GTR is a stocker but I still get a giggle out of driving once every month or so and there is no greater road presence than an R32 GTR. People still get out of my way and watch me go past on the hwy, they give no fark for my Liberty.

Bought my R32 GTR which had a fresh R34 motor and brand new GT3582R after searching for about a year. 1994 V-Spec II. Was a weekend track car that wasn't daily driven, but when I drove it, I drove it HARD! All fluids done when I first bought it and fresh Motul 300V every 3000KMs.

Didn't have a SINGLE problem even with all that abuse on the track, although it did have a Greddy oil cooler and all the usual oil mods like 8L sump, baffles etc.

Sold it a few months ago for my asking price of $26,000 to the first person to see the car.

This shows that a good GTR is still easily worth $20,000, or even $25,000!

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